Things to do in Anafi
The ultimate travel guide to Anafi (*2023 Update*)
Anafi is a remote island in the Aegean Sea with less than 150 permanent inhabitants. It lies in the southeastern part of the Cyclades and is less than two hours away from Santorini. After visiting Anafi a couple of times already, I thought of writing a comprehensive travel guide for the island. Here, you will find the must-see places, a selection of beaches, and useful tips about the best things to do in Anafi.
Specifically, this Anafi travel guide focuses on the things that will help you plan a fantastic vacation: from booking your ferry tickets to finding accommodation in Anafi and from discovering the best places to eat to setting a budget. Moreover, I wrote down everything you need to know about the beaches of Anafi and what else to do on the island. Finally, you will also see my two Anafi videos, and you’ll find info about the island’s hiking trails.
This travel guide to Anafi is full of information about your stay; if you want to see more photos and impressions, you can also check my Anafi travelogues (here is the 2018 travelogue, and here is the 2019 travelogue).
So, let’s start with the best things to do in Anafi and the complete travel guide to the beautiful Greek island.
Some of the links are affiliate links, which means that if you buy something, I might earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
Anafi travel guide: How to reach it
Reach Anafi by ferry
Anafi is a remote island, and therefore, it’ll take time to reach it. Do not expect some huge adventure in reaching it, though. However, the journey to Anafi is long, and it will take 12 or even 14 hours if there is a delay in the ferry’s schedule. A thing to keep in mind is that the ferry doesn’t reach Anafi daily from Piraeus. On the contrary, there are only two to three ferries per week. The cost is approx. 40 euros per person. There’s also an option to book a cabin for the entire journey. Even though it costs double, I always find it a good idea.
You can use the interactive widget below to find the best prices for ferry tickets to Anafi. Apart from pricing, it will show you all available itineraries.
Anafi by plane
In addition, there is, of course, a more pricey option. You can fly from Athens to Santorini and from there take a ferry. It is a short flight of approx. 30 minutes but keep (once again!) in mind that the ferry doesn’t reach Anafi daily. However, the cost of the ferry from Santorini to Anafi is pretty cheap (~7 euros). Therefore, this option’s total price depends on the flight to Santorini: it can be anything from 50 to 300 euros. Book your plane tickets in advance.
Aegean Airlines flies several times per day to Santorini. You can use the search engine below to find the best flights from Athens to Santorini.
Where to stay in Anafi
I always stay in Anafi at the Dream Anafi studios. Katerina, the super-friendly owner of the rooms, is always there to offer help and the best tips for your stay (tell her I recommended it to you!). The price for September is 60 euros for a double room, and if you’d like to go in August, expect something like 90-100 euros.
There are several places to stay in Anafi, almost exclusively in Chora. Therefore, if you can’t find accommodation at Dream Anafi, I suggest you check the following:
Boreas Stone House. At the Chora’s heart, this stone house is an excellent option for your stay in Anafi. The rooms have a nice Cycladic style, and they are clean. Check the prices for Boreas House here.
Ypseli. That’s the best accommodation you can stay in on the island. Ypseli is a new studio complex with an endless view of the open sea and proximity to the famous Roukounas beach. The only down part is that it’s well out of the Chora, and you’ll struggle to move around if you don’t have a car. If you have a vehicle, look no further. Book your room at Ypseli.
Ta Plagia. Located at the Chora’s entrance, Ta Plagia is one of the most known accommodations in Anafi. Good traditional service and clean rooms at reasonable prices. See the prices for the Plagia here.
Ostria. That’s one more typical Cycladic accommodation in Anafi. The rooms are clean and tidy, and the views are spectacular. Ostria is one of the most beloved accommodations on the island. Check Ostria’s availability here.
Villa Galini. One more great option in the Chora. Welcoming hosts, clean rooms, and grand verandas with a view of the open sea. See Villa Galini here.
Check all your options here or use the interactive map below.
A note about Anafi’s accommodations
As I’ve written in my travelogue, there is a new resort hotel in Anafi. It might be an awesome place and all, but a resort is not what Anafi is all about. I firmly believe that such establishments taint the island, and it’s definitely not what Anafi needs. If you’d like to stay in a resort, you can do that elsewhere, in places sold to mass tourism and everything that comes with it, for example, in Santorini or Mykonos.
Try to stay at a nice local house or room instead. You will have a more original time, help the local economy, and blend in with the locals. Their hospitality and kindness are both unique. This is the most valuable experience you’ll get in Anafi, not some infinity pool.
Camping in Anafi
Last but not least, Anafi is a paradise for free campers. Especially at the Roukounas beach, the campers are countless. If you are one, make sure to respect the island as it respects you. It has worked well over the years, and I’m sure it’ll work in the future.
Where to eat and drink in Anafi
There are many tavernas in Anafi, and I’m glad to say that no fancy restaurants exist. The prices are moderate, and the food is delicious. (See more on the how-to-budget section of this post). All the eateries are located on the main street of the Chora. So, the places I tried are:
Endochora. As I’ve written in the travelogue, Endochora is hands down my favorite place to eat in Anafi. It’s open from mid-June to mid-September and is more of a house than a taverna. It serves excellent homemade food at low prices. Two starters, two main dishes, and homemade wine will cost you 25-30 euros. Paying 12-14 euros per person is a true bargain for the quality you get. Don’t miss the homemade meat dishes, and ask for zucchinis from the owners’ garden. See Endochora on Google Maps.
Tholos. Another one of my beloved establishments in Anafi. A cafe during the day turns later in the evening into a great taverna. The young guys running Tholos are super polite and seem to know everything about the island. And, of course, they know how to cook. Excellent moussaka and homemade fries. I had pretty often breakfast there and/or dinner at night. Low prices and a great atmosphere overall. You won’t pay more than 10-12 euros per person.
Liotrivi. That’s a fish restaurant with excellent food. The fish comes straight from the sea of Anafi, and sometimes you might see the fishermen bringing the haul of the day. Slightly more expensive, but if you love eating fish, that’s the place to go. Regarding the fish, the price per kilo is approx. 40-50 euros; therefore, expect about 17-20 euros per portion. The rest of the dishes are priced reasonably, as pretty much everywhere on the island.
Astrahan. Homemade food with a magnificent view over the port of Anafi. In the style of Endochora, good quality food, despite the latter being the best. Tasty meatballs and homemade pasta called ballotia (looks like tagliatelle).
To Petrino. The souvlaki place of Anafi. Very good prices and tasty food, so you should definitely not miss this one if you are on a budget.
Argo. Cafe Bar with a nice view over the Aegean Sea. A decent option for breakfast, as well as for a drink later in the evening. It also has excellent panoramic views of the island.
Glaros. A very pleasant bar on the main street. It’s probably the most beautiful in Anafi.
The beaches of Anafi and other things to do
There are several beaches on the island, and it largely depends if you have your own car/moped or rely on the bus. Moving around by bus is not a minus; the bus will take you to some of the best places for 1,50-2 euros one way. However, if you have a car, you have a few more options. And, of course, you’ll be more flexible.
Anafi is famous for its trails and paths; if you enjoy being in nature, you should spend a day hiking. One of the top things to do in Anafi is climb the Monolith of Kalamos and enjoy the Monastery’s view. This is a truly unique experience. However, you should avoid doing that between 12 and 4 pm as the sun is burning even in September. You’d better do it either very early in the morning or after 4:30-5 pm.
Regarding the beaches, Anafi has plenty of them. The major ones are approachable by bus, and just a bunch of them need a car, mainly in the island’s northern part. Keep in mind, though, that if there’s a north wind (the one known as Meltemi), just don’t lose time visiting the northern beaches. The wind is so strong that you won’t be able to swim or even stay at the beach. Trust me, the sandblasting will be really painful. So, let’s start with the beaches of Anafi.
The beaches of Anafi
Klisidi. This is one of the closest beaches to the Chora. There is a regular bus service throughout the day. Klisidi is a big sandy beach with an incredible landscape and a taverna nearby. There are enough tamarisk trees for everybody, but you’d better have an umbrella if you visit Klisidi during the high season. Margarita’s restaurant serves great food, and you can also buy water and beverages for your day at the beach.
Megas Potamos. One of the nicest and wildest beaches in Anafi. It has just one big tamarisk tree; therefore, an umbrella is recommended. This is a totally isolated beach, so pack everything you need for the day. Sometimes the waves are high, but it has the best view over the Monolith. The bus stops nearby, and you just follow a ten minutes path.
Roukounas. The paradise of free campers. Hundreds, literally, of them occupy the beach all summer long. However, if you like this lifestyle, then that’s your place. The bus stop is nearby, and there is a taverna, too.
Flamourou. A twenty-minute walk from the Klisidi beach, Flamourou is a small rocky beach welcoming to nudists. Not the top beach on the island, in my opinion, but if you are a nudist who appreciates quietness, this is a great option.
Katsouni. You can reach the sandy beach of Katsouni from a path starting from Klisidi. Alternatively, you can walk from the Mikros Roukounas bus stop. Katsouni is also close to Flamourou.
Agioi Anargyroi. Next to Megas Potamos lies the Agioi Anargyroi beach. Mid-sized beach with a church on one side. Isolated, therefore, bring your provisions. The bus stops there, too. The landscape is beautiful.
Monastiri. That’s the last beach the bus reaches and where you can start hiking toward the Kalamiotissa monastery on the Monolith. Don’t be confused by the (so-called) Lower Monastery that you’ll see when you arrive there; it’s not the one you’re looking for if you’re there for hiking. To be honest, the beach itself is not something spectacular, but you will swim next to the Monolith.
Livoskopos. This is an excellent beach on the northern side of the island. However, if the wind blows from the north, do not even bother going: you won’t be able to stand at the beach, let alone swim. Livoskopos is one of the finest sandy beaches on the island, but unfortunately, it’s only accessible by car. The road is pretty bad, and if you are easily scared, you should better avoid it. It’s much better to use the hiking trail and reach it on foot; it takes approximately 40 minutes.
Agios Georgios. Same as Livoskopos: a beach on the northern side, only accessible by car and through an uncomfortable, dusty road. This is a place to visit for the scenery, but it’s not recommended for swimming. It is way too rocky, but you will likely be alone there. If you feel uncomfortable on narrow dusty roads, you’d better avoid it.
Katalimatsa. A sandy beach that you can reach straight after Roukounas. Katalimatsa is the ancient port of Anafi, and there’s a path leading to an ancient cemetery. There’s also a windmill atop the hill with great views of the open sea.
Anafi beach essentials
Before I write about a few other things to do in Anafi, I’ll add a tiny section about two things you should have with you. As you can see, the beaches of Anafi have no facilities like sunbeds or umbrellas. The Cycladic landscape is always dry, and the sun tends to be intense. That said, you can quickly get sunburned during the summer. So, if you are visiting Anafi and willing to hike or spend time at the beach (or both), don’t forget to bring a pop-up beach tent and sunscreen (and lots of water, of course).
A pop-up beach tent will probably fit easily in your suitcase, but even if it doesn’t, it’s lightweight, and you can even have it in hand. Here’s one pop-up tent, and here’s a bigger one.
As for the sunscreen, I’m not an expert, but I had one with me. Sunscreen like this one should be good for your vacation in Anafi.
Other things to do in Anafi
While beach time will occupy the best part of your day, there are a couple of things to enjoy while in Anafi. So, here’s what else you can do in Anafi.
Explore the Chora of Anafi
The Chora of Anafi is a picturesque settlement full of narrow white streets, small shops, and tavernas. There’s a tiny castle on the Chora’s top that you can visit for stunning Aegean Sea views. Chat with the locals, see Anafi’s church, and stroll around the Chora to immerse yourself in the local lifestyle.
The Monolith and the Kalamiotissa Monastery
Anafi is home to the second biggest monolith in Europe (the biggest is Gibraltar), and you can actually hike to its top. There you will find a monastery called Kalamiotissa. It’s one of the most beautiful spots on the island. I wrote a separate article on the Monolith, and you will find everything you need to know for your hike. You can read about the Monolith and the monastery here.
The hiking trails of Anafi
Anafi is a hiker’s paradise. While it might be too warm to enjoy them fully, the hiking trails of Anafi will expose you to the island’s beauty. There are several designated paths, and you can grab a map from the small stores of Anafi. You can also download a free ebook (unfortunately available only in Greek), where you will find maps of the hiking trails of Anafi. You can open it as a PDF here.
Art in Anafi
Believe it or not, there’s an art biennale in Anafi. The so-called Phenomenon is a contemporary art project taking place every two years on the island. There are live performances, lectures, and video screenings, and the artworks are exhibited in various locations around Anafi. The Phenomenon is co-organized by the Collection Kerenidis Pepe and the Association Phenomenon.
The ancient city of Anafi
While the main settlement has been inhabited for centuries, there’s also an ancient city in Anafi. That’s actually where the first settlers built their homes, and you can still see some of their remains. It’s located in the area of Kastelli, and you can reach it on foot either from Agios Mamas or Roukounas Beach. You will see the ruins of Anafi’s ancient city, the Sarcophagus, and a tiny church called Panagia tou Dokariou.
Anafi travel guide: How to budget
Anafi is a relatively cheap island. Apart from August, which is crowded everywhere in Greece, you can find true bargains every other month. A double room starts at 35 euros, and food starts at 10 euros per person. A one-way ticket with the little bus of Anafi will cost you 1,50 if you go to Klisidi or the port and 2 or 2,50 if you choose to go to the more distant beaches. Renting a car in September costs about 30-35 euros per day.
I would advise you not to visit Anafi in August, though, because it will be packed. This doesn’t mean that it will look like Santorini or Mykonos, but for a place of 150 permanent inhabitants, the 4,000 visitors during any day of August can make it look (and feel) crowded. Of course, if you tend to feel lonely during the low season, August is probably a good option for you. June, July, September, and even the beginning of October are far better months for spending time (and swimming) in Anafi.
So that’s it with the best things to do in Anafi. Let me know if you enjoyed the island in the comments below.
*Did you know that I have written a book about Anafi? You can learn more about it here. There is also a limited edition of the book; check out the availability of the book on my online shop.*
My travelogues about Anafi: Divine Anafi, A letter to Anafi & Wim Wenders in Anafi
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Last Updated on June 15, 2023 by George Pavlopoulos
Hi, it’s now 2022 and the world has changed, has Anafi since writing this. I travelled the Cyclades from the mid eighties. I’m keen to find somewhere that has a flavour of those times including sleeping on the beach under a tree, sounds like Anafi may be an option. Cheers
Hi Tim,
I update the guides annually to reflect any changes. Anafi is more or less untouched by mass tourism, and the flair is very original. During August, the island will be most likely packed (the same goes for every other island in the Cyclades). I can’t tell you if Anafi feels like the 80s, though. Free camping is still a thing at Roukounas beach, but you won’t probably be alone.
In general, if you are up for a very relaxing Greek vacation, I can highly recommend the small islands of the Cyclades, like Anafi, Schinoussa, Sikinos, Donoussa, etc. Skip August that it’s going to be crowded and visit one or more islands after mid-September. I’m pretty sure you’ll have a great time.
Feel free to ask more questions, and I’ll do my best to help you.
All the best,
George
george, thank you so much for your nice overview and insights with updates, i really appreciate that!
may i ask for your knowledge, regarding two things?
1. i know that the wild camping still happens and is tolerated despite e.g. the official sign at roukonas etc, right? do you know if it is officially prosecuted though? if there is an actual danger to be fined? i heard that things are kinda changing on the cyclades, also with donoussa erc.
2. in your experience, where there vegetable options available at tavernas? i’d be happy to know i can munch on some patates at least or a briam maybe?
3. are the mini markets very mini, how much every day food stuff like veggies, bread, dolmades are available?
thank you so much if you have any answers and are willing to take the time to reply!
many warm grettings, miriam
Hello dear Miriam!
Thanks for your comment. Here are the replies to your questions 🙂
1) Indeed, camping still happens, but it’s getting harder to camp in Anafi. I don’t think it will be officially prosecuted; otherwise, hundreds of people would have to be charged anyway. However, there’s always a possibility of getting a fine. In general, the safest option is to find accommodation -in September the prices are really affordable. I know that lots of people love free camping, and that’s one of the things that made islands like Anafi or Donoussa so tempting. It’s not a matter of official signs; it’s more a thing of the post-pandemic world. The sign at Roukounas was always there, but this didn’t stop the free campers. Anafi doesn’t have loads of policemen, and the police station is just another tiny whitewashed house. From what I heard, it’s more of an order from the local municipality. All that said, it’s a bit riskier to camp in Anafi, but I don’t easily see legal actions. Maybe they’ll ask you to leave, but I don’t see any radical moves.
2) Yes, there are vegetable options in the tavernas. In places like Tholos, you’ll have plenty of vegetarian dishes. Vegan options are probably rare: that’s, somehow, understandable because the island is small, and they tend to cook lots of traditional dishes. You will find patates and briam, and I guess there will be eggplants with tomato and cheese (a must!). You won’t suffer as a vegetarian in Anafi, but don’t expect a high variety. However, the food is delicious!
3) The mini-markets are really mini. There are actually two of them, and the more central one is open till late. The other one opens just a couple of hours per day. You’ll definitely find all sorts of vegetables and bread. I think it’ll be harder to find dolmades in the mini-market; however, you’ll easily find dolmades in the tavernas.
And here’s a general Anafi tip: don’t be shy and ask the locals. They will be happy to offer you some vegetables from their gardens. You can also pay them some money (they might not accept it), but the nicest thing in the smaller islands of the Cyclades is the interaction with the locals. They are generous, nice, and happy to share food.
Are you heading there in September? If you have more questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!
I hope I have helped a bit.
All the best, and enjoy Anafi!
George