Cricova: Wine tasting & the stunning underground city

Last Updated on June 26, 2025 by George Pavlopoulos

Cricova is one of those charming places that still exist in Europe. Located just 15 kilometers outside of Chisinau, the winery of Cricova is, in fact, an underground city. Wine lovers and off-the-beaten-path travelers might be aware of this hidden gem just outside the capital of Moldova. However, this underground wine city remains largely undiscovered.

What makes the wine city of Cricova unique is the fact that it’s built beneath the ground. This bizarre underground city has more than 120 kilometers of roadways. Their names derive from the wines stored within each one. Its deepest spot is approximately 100 meters underground, and according to the ancient Greek historian Herodotus, vineyards were already present in the area from the 5th century BC.

The wine cellars themselves have existed for more than five hundred years. The area is rich in limestone, and it was dug to build the city of Chisinau. After World War II, however, Cricova began operating independently. As years went by, it turned into a wine emporium in 1954. Today, in a visit to Cricova, you’ll also see several stores, testing rooms, and other facilities, including halls for official meetings.

I visited Cricova several months ago and had the opportunity to go on a wine tasting tour. The wine was delightful, and the underground city fascinated me. In this post, I’ll share several photos from my tour, along with some fun facts. At the very end, you’ll also find practical info for your visit.

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The Wine City of Cricova: An underground tour

I reached Cricova on a freezing winter day. It was February, with temperatures of -15 degrees Celsius, and there was thick snow everywhere. On the other hand, the underground wine city of Cricova enjoys a very stable microclimate. The temperature remains steady around 12 C (54 F) all year long. For wine, that’s ideal.

As I mentioned earlier, Cricova is just 15 kilometers away from Chisinau. It feels almost like a suburb, where approximately 10,000 people live. Even if it’s not so convenient, you can visit Cricova by public transport. However, given the circumstances, I preferred to rent a car in Chisinau and have a smooth drive to the winery. So, here you can actually see the entrance.

I had an appointment for the guided tour, and the guide told everyone to wait inside the office. A couple of minutes later, a small vehicle came to pick up the group. Imagine it like several open carriages, a mini-train. This is how you enter the underground city. The vehicle drives through a downward tunnel, and it’s quite speedy. The exact vehicle will also take you around the wine city.

When the ground becomes flatter, it’s time to stop at different locations within the underground city. Remember: the temperature is 12 C year long. That said, it was much more pleasant in the wine city than it was outside. However, if you visit Cricova during the summer, be sure to bring a jacket with you. It can feel cold, and the humidity is high.

Dozens of wine barrels will greet you when you enter Cricova. There are thousands of them in every street of the underground city. The tunnels are approximately 6-7 meters wide and 3-3,5 meters in height. And when you cross them, you’ll see more or less this:

One of the most legendary tales that you’ll hear on your tour is the one about Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. According to the legend, when Yuri Gagarin visited Cricova in the 1960s, he got lost in the wine city’s tunnels. It took him two days to find the exit. As the tour guide said, “he found his way to space, but not out of Cricova.” Rumor has it that he was slightly drunk when he exited Cricova.

On the other hand, Cricova’s history is connected to politics (you’ll see why in the following paragraphs). For example, Vladimir Putin celebrated his 50th birthday in Cricova.

In one of your first stops in the underground wine city, you’ll have, of course, the opportunity to taste the local wines. Cricova is renowned for its sparkling wines, produced using the French Méthode Champenoise method. Moldova had its own Dom Pérignon, a man called Petru Ungureanu. In a book published in 1960, Ungureanu explained the entire process of wine-making in Moldova.

In 1957, the first champagnes were produced in Cricova, and by the early 70s, Cricova’s production reached 1 million bottles.

Of course, apart from the sparkling wine, you can also find white, rosé, and red wines. The varieties of wine production are Shiraz, Feteasca Neagră, Cabernet Sauvignon, Feteasca Albă, and Feteasca Regală.

And here’s an odd fact: every second day, five women rotate by hand about 35,000 bottles of sparkling wine 45 degrees in their racks. According to experts, this is essential for the optimal movement of sediments.

One of the highlights of your visit will definitely be The National Oenotheque. This is actually a large area with more than 1,3 million bottles of wine. Each one of these bottles has a unique story. They are gathered from all over the world, and some of them are really rare. The undeniable pearl of the Oenothèque is the “Easter Jerusalem.” The “Easter Jerusalem” is a red wine bottled in 1902. The one you’ll see here is the only piece in the world that survived from a total of 400 bottles.

And here’s where politics comes into play. World-famous politicians store their wine collections in Cricova. To name a few, notable figures such as Angela Merkel, Joe Biden, John Kerry, and Vladimir Putin are among the most well-known individuals with private wine collections in Cricova. One could even say that these collections are indicative of Moldova’s geopolitical orientation.

Oddly enough, one of the most notable wine collections in Cricova belonged to the high-ranking Nazi official Hermann Göring. It consisted of more than 2,000 elite wines, and Göring got the wines from the countries that Germany occupied. After the war, the remaining bottles were divided between Georgia and the Republic of Moldova.

Here, you can also see another section of a private wine collection. Note that the bottles are covered with dust; it’s assumed to be an organic part of wine aging because dust protects them from external light. The bottles in the photo date back to 1940 and are from Italy.

Five impressive halls combining classical and modern architecture are used for official gatherings and wine tours. When you visit the wine city of Cricova, you will have the chance to see all of them. Actually, in one of them, your wine tasting will take place.

I’m not sure if they always use the same one, but if they do, then that’s the one you see in the cover photo of this post. It’s called “Sea Bottom,” and it symbolizes the Sarmatian Sea. Of course, Moldova is a landlocked country; the name refers to a sea that existed 12 million years ago, in the Miocene period.

The other four halls are the European Hall, the Presidential Hall, the Fireplace Hall, and the Casa Mare. Here you can see the Presidential Hall.

While wandering around Cricova, you will also come across exhibits from the history of Moldovan winemaking. Apart from these, there’s also a small cinema, located in Lumière Brothers Street. There you can watch a short introductory movie about Cricova’s history, together with some helpful information about the area.

Here’s one more photo from the interior of the underground city.

After finishing your tour of Cricova, the mini-train will drive you back to the exit. I took the so-called “National Tour,” which lasted approximately 2 hours, including the wine tasting.

Practical info for your visit to Cricova

In this section, you will find practical information to help you plan your visit to Cricova. While I strive to keep all the information up-to-date, I will also provide direct links to the winery’s official website.

How to reach Cricova

Getting to the wine city is easy. It’s just a quick drive from Chisinau. You can reach it by public transportation, but it may not be very convenient. The bust stops approximately one kilometer away from the winery. During wintertime, a one-kilometer distance might be rather cruel.

Therefore, I highly recommend renting a car. Moldova is a cheap country, and you won’t spend a fortune on a car. In fact, you can pick it up straight at the airport, which is the best option. You can find the best prices for renting a car at Chisinau airport on Kayak.

The winery’s address is 1 Petru Ungureanu str., Cricova. Just tap it on your GPS (or your Google Maps) and follow the route.

Opening hours

Monday-Friday: 9.00-21.00

Saturday-Sunday: 10.00 – 18.00

It’s better to book a tour in advance. Also, ask about their special tours, as you might see even more of the underground city. Expect some extra cost as well.

You can see all the tours here.

What’s included on the tours

Guided tours are a must in Cricova. An employee will pick you up at the entrance and will drive you to the underground city. There, your guide will share plenty of info and will take you to every room. Wine tasting is always included in the price, where you’ll have the opportunity to try different wines and local delicacies. At the end of the tour, you can also buy bottles of wine. I bought some of their red wines, and I still remember them. Don’t miss the chance. The prices are reasonable.

For those who can’t visit the winery right now but would love to try Cricova’s wine, there’s also an online shop.

Shooting photos

That’s more of a tip. If you’ve been following this blog for a while, you probably know that I take the majority of my photos with the Ricoh GR II. However, the tiny Ricoh struggled due to the low light. That said, if you have a DSLR camera, have it with you. You won’t regret it, because you will most likely have to shoot at a minimum ISO of 1600.

Bonus: Where to stay in Chisinau

If you’re still searching for accommodation for your journey to Moldova (consider visiting Transnistria too), look no further. I highly recommend the Regency Hotel, which is a new and modern establishment. Additionally, it’s easy to reach Cricova, as it’s conveniently located in the center of Chisinau.

More wine regions: Nemea in Greece

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