Cricova is one of those charming places that still exist in Europe. Located just 15 kilometers outside of Chisinau, the winery of Cricova is, in fact, an underground city. Wine lovers and off-the-beaten-path travelers might be aware of this hidden gem just outside the capital of Moldova. However, this underground wine city remains largely undiscovered.
What makes the wine city of Cricova unique is the fact that it’s built beneath the ground. This bizarre underground city has more than 120 kilometers of roadways. Their names derive from the wines stored in each one of them. Its deepest spot is approximately 100 meters under the ground, and according to ancient Greek historian Herodotus, there were vineyards in the area already from the 5th century BC.
The wine cellars themselves exist for more than five hundred years. The area is rich in limestone, and it was dug to build the city of Chisinau. After World War II, though, Cricova started operating for itself. As years went by, it turned into a wine emporium in 1954. Today, in a visit to Cricova, you’ll also see several stores, testing rooms, and other facilities, including halls for official meetings.
I visited Cricova several months ago, and I had the chance to go on a wine tasting tour. The wine was delightful, and the underground city fascinated me. In this post, I’ll share several photos from my tour and some fun facts. At the very end, you’ll also find practical info for your visit.
The Wine City of Cricova: An underground tour
I reached Cricova on a freezing winter day. It was February -15 degrees Celsius, and there was thick snow everywhere. On the other hand, the underground wine city of Cricova enjoys a very stable microclimate. The temperature remains steady around 12 C (54 F) all year long. For wine, that’s ideal.
As I wrote in the beginning, Cricova is just 15 kilometers away from Chisinau. It feels almost like a suburb, where approximately 10,000 people live. Even if it’s not so convenient, you can visit Cricova by public transport. However, given the circumstances, I preferred to rent a car in Chisinau and have a smooth drive to the winery. So, here you can actually see the entrance.
I had an appointment for the guided tour, and the guide told everyone to wait inside the office. A couple of minutes later, a small vehicle came to pick up the group. Imagine it like several open carriages -a mini-train. This is how you enter the underground city. The vehicle drives through a downward tunnel -and it’s quite speedy. And the same vehicle will also drive you around the wine city.
When the ground becomes flatter, it’s time to stop at different locations within the underground city. Remember: the temperature is 12 C year long. That said, it was much more pleasant in the wine city than it was outside. However, if you visit Cricova during summer, make sure to have a jacket with you. It can feel cold, and the humidity is high.
Dozens of wine barrels will greet you when you enter Cricova. There are thousands of them in every street of the underground city. The tunnels are approximately 6-7 meters wide and 3-3,5 meters in height. And when you cross them, you’ll see more or less this:
One of the most legendary tales that you’ll hear on your tour is the one about Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. According to the legend, when Yuri Gagarin visited Cricova in the 1960s, he got lost in the wine city’s tunnels. It took him two days to find the exit. As the tour guide said, “he found his way to space, but not out of Cricova.” Rumor has it that he was slightly drunk when he exited Cricova.
On the other hand, Cricova’s history is connected to politics (you’ll see why in the following paragraphs). For example, Vladimir Putin celebrated his 50th birthday in Cricova.
In one of your first stops in the underground wine city, you’ll have, of course, the opportunity to taste the local wines. Cricova is very famous for its sparkling wines, produced following the french method of Methode Champenoise. Moldova had its own Dom Pérignon, a man called Petru Ungureanu. In a book published in 1960, Ungureanu explained everything about the procedure of wine-making in Moldova. In 1957, the first champagnes were produced in Cricova, and by the early 70s, Cricova’s production reached 1 million bottles.
Of course, apart from the sparkling wine, you can also find white, rosé, and red wines. The varieties of wine production are Shiraz, Feteasca Neagră, Cabernet Sauvignon, Feteasca Albă, and Feteasca Regală.
And here’s an odd fact: every second day, five women rotate by hand about 35,000 bottles of sparkling wine 45 degrees in their racks. According to the experts, this is a must for the optimal movement of sediments.
One of the highlights of your visit will definitely be The National Oenotheque. This is actually a large area with more than 1,3 million bottles of wine. Each one of these bottles has unique stories. They are gathered from all over the world, and some of them are really rare. The undeniable pearl of the Oenothèque is the “Easter Jerusalem.” The “Easter Jerusalem” is a red wine bottled in 1902. The one you’ll see here is the only piece in the world that survived from a total of 400 bottles.
And here’s where politics come into place. World-famous politicians store their wine collections in Cricova. To name but a few, people like Angela Merkel, Joe Biden, John Kerry, and Vladimir Putin are among the most well-known figures with private wine collections in Cricova. One could even say that these collections are indicative of Moldova’s geopolitical orientation.
Oddly enough, one of the most notable wine collections in Cricova belonged to the high-ranking Nazi official Hermann Göring. It consisted of more than 2,000 elite wines, and Göring got the wines from the countries that Germany occupied. After the end of the War, the remaining bottles were split between Georgia and the Republic of Moldova.
Here you can also see one more section of a private wine collection. Note that the bottles are covered with dust; it’s assumed an organic part of wine aging because dust protects them from external light. The bottles in the photo date back to 1940 and are from Italy.
Five impressive halls combining classical and modern architecture are used for official gatherings and wine tours. When you visit the wine city of Cricova, you will have the chance to see all of them. Actually, in one of them, your wine tasting will take place. I’m not sure if they always use the same one, but if they do, then that’s the one you see in the cover photo of this post. It’s called “Sea Bottom,” and it symbolizes the Sarmatian Sea. Of course, Moldova is a landlocked country; the name refers to a sea that existed 12 million years ago, in the Miocene period.
The other four halls are the European Hall, the Presidential Hall, the Fireplace Hall, and the Casa Mare. Here you can see the Presidential Hall.
While wandering around Cricova, you will also come across exhibits from the history of Moldovan winemaking. Apart from these, there’s also a small cinema, located in Lumière Brothers Street. There you can watch a short introductory movie about Cricova’s history together with some useful info about the area.
Here’s one more photo from the interior of the underground city.
After finishing your tour to Cricova, the mini-train will drive you back to the exit. I took the so-called “National Tour,” and it lasted approximately 2 hours, together with the wine tasting.
Practical info for your visit to Cricova
In this section, you will find practical info for your visit to Cricova. While I try to keep all the information up-to-date, I will also link directly to the winery’s official website.
How to reach Cricova
Getting to the wine city is easy. It’s just a quick drive from Chisinau. You can reach it by public transport, but it might not be that convenient. The bust stops approximately one kilometer away from the winery. During wintertime, one kilometer might be rather cruel.
Therefore, I highly recommend renting a car. Moldova is a cheap country, and you won’t spend a fortune on a car. In fact, you can pick it up straight at the airport, which is the best option. You can find the best prices for renting a car in Chisinau airport either on Europcar or Sixt.
The winery’s address is 1 Petru Ungureanu str., Cricova. Just tap it on your GPS (or your Google Maps) and follow the route.
Opening hours
Monday-Friday: 9.00-21.00
Saturday-Sunday: 10.00 – 18.00
It’s better to book a tour in advance. Ask also for their special tours because you might see even more of the underground city. Expect some extra cost as well.
You can see all the tours here.
What’s included on the tours
Guided tours are a must in Cricova. An employee will pick you up at the entrance and will drive you to the underground city. There, your guide will share plenty of info and will take you to every room. There’s always wine tasting included in the price, where you’ll try different wines and local delicacies. At the end of the tour, you can also buy bottles of wine. I bought some of their red wines, and I still remember them. Don’t miss the chance. The prices are reasonable.
For the ones that can’t visit the winery right now but they’d love to try Cricova’s wine, there’s also an online shop.
Shooting photos
That’s more of a tip. If you follow this blog for a while, you probably know that I take the majority of photos with the Ricoh GR II. However, the tiny Ricoh struggled due to the low light. That said, if you have a DSLR camera, have it with you. You won’t regret it because you will most likely have to shoot with a minimum of ISO 1600.
Bonus: Where to stay in Chisinau
If you’re still searching for accommodation for your journey to Moldova (consider visiting Transnistria too), look no further. I can highly recommend the Regency Hotel, which is new and modern. Plus, it’s easy to reach Cricova while it’s conveniently located in the center of Chisinau.
More wine regions: Nemea in Greece
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Last Updated on April 10, 2021 by George Pavlopoulos
George, have you ever watched the film The Secret of Santa Vittoria (1969), starring Anthony Quinn? It’s an excellent movie. If you haven’t seen it, you need to find it and watch it. So so good.
It’s fascinating that Nazis and other famous politicians have stored some wine at Cricova. It must be like having a Swiss bank account. I definitely want to check it out if I am ever up that way. Looks like a great tourist attraction for wine lovers and history buffs.
Hey John. No, I haven’t watched the film, and to be honest, I had to google it. I know Kramer from the “Ship of Fools,” but I never heard of this movie. Sounds very interesting; I’m going to search for it.
Yes, I found it also fascinating that so many private wine collections are stored in Cricova. I actually learned about it when I visited it. If you happen to be in the future in this area of Europe, a visit to Cricova is a must. In general, Moldova is fascinating, and tourists/travelers haven’t discovered it yet. It’s a hidden gem, if you ask me, due to its originality.
I have just put a hold on Ship of Fools at my local library which has it by luck. I have never heard of the movie before. I have a post about wine movies titled 22 Wine Movies and Scenes for Lovers of Dionysus.
Click on my name to go to the page if you want to discover some more enjoyable wine related films, but definitely check out The Secret of Santa Vittoria. It’s a classic!
I already did! It’s an excellent round-up of wine-related movies! I think I watched half of them, but apparently, there is so much more to explore. Great selection; I’ll try to watch a couple of them during the weekend.
Enjoy the Ship of Fools; it impressed me when I watched it almost 15 years ago. Cheers!
Hi George, did you watch a movie yet? If so, did you like the film?
Hey John. Unfortunately, no, not yet. It’s always in my mind, but even in this situation, I’m relatively busy. I haven’t forgotten it. Hopefully soon.