Kalamiotissa Monastery in Anafi: A church on the top of a Monolith

Even though I’m not religious, I always visit the Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa when I’m in Anafi. That little church on the rock has been standing there for centuries, and hiking all the way up the Monolith of Kalamos is an experience that you’ll never forget. Honestly, I find it one of the best things to do in the Greek islands, and if you ever visit Anafi, you should not miss the chance to reach the Monastery.

While this is an off-the-beaten-path experience, in my opinion, it is one of the unique things to do in Greece. It’s not only that the views -as you can easily imagine- are spectacular. On a clear day, you can see Santorini, Amorgos, and even Astypalaia. Apart from that, the most remote Greek islands are always the most rewarding ones. They will somehow make you obey their rhythms and appreciate slow traveling.

Hiking to Kalamiotissa Monastery in Anafi is one of these remarkable experiences that you’ll remember for the rest of your life. Therefore, in this post, I’m going to present a photo report from Kalamiotissa (Greek: Παναγία Καλαμιώτισσα), a 28-minute video of the hike,  and a guide on how to visit it too.

So, here’s what you need to know, the 4K video and the photo report.

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Where is the Kalamiotissa Monastery?

The Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa lies on the eastern side of Anafi, on the Monolith of Kalamos (~460 m). The impressive Monolith is the second largest in Europe (after Gibraltar), and on the top, you can find the picturesque Kalamiotissa church.

Don’t get confused, though: if you have rented a car, you’ll stop at the so-called Lower Monastery. That’s where the road ends, and that’s also where the local bus stops. That’s not the Kalamiotissa Monastery; from there, you’ll have to hike for approximately one hour and ten minutes to reach it.

A bit of history & some Kalamiotissa facts

The Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa is built on top of a Monolith. The Monolith’s name Kalamos (Greek: Κάλαμος) actually gave the name to the Monastery. According to the local tradition, the Monastery was built there because the locals found an icon of the Virgin Mary. It was actually hanging from a reed (which roughly translates to Kalami in Greek), and that also explains the name. Kalamos is part of the Natura 2000 network of protected areas in the world.

The Monastery of Kalamiotissa in Anafi dates back to approx. 1700. The church on the Kalamos Rock is a domed single-nave church. The Monastery was abandoned during the 19th century, and the icons had to be transferred to the Lower Monastery, which lies on the foot of Kalamos.

The botanist Joseph Pitton de Tournefort visited Anafi in 1700. After seeing the Monolith of Kalamos, he called it “one of the most terrifying rocks in the world.” Tournefort also claimed that he saw a fortress on the peak of Kalamos. He assumed it was a building from when Anafi was part of the Duchy of Naxos (ca. 1204-1579).

On the northern side of Kalamos, you can also visit Drakontospilo (Greek for dragons’ cave). You can only reach Drakontospilo by following a path which is, however, somewhat dangerous. You’d better not try it without having a local with you. Its entrance is almost 10 meters high, and inside it, you’ll see impressive stalactites. According to the locals, the cave is very deep and ends in a smaller cave on the other side of Kalamos.

How to reach the Monastery of Kalamiotissa

The end of the road will bring you to the Lower Monastery. That’s where a trekking path starts. For first-time visitors, you should calculate approximately one hour and thirty minutes. The first part of the trail is steep, while on the second, you’ll see vertical cliffs beneath your feet. Don’t let any of these two facts discourage you. As long as you are careful, there’s nothing to worry about.

The way down is definitely more comfortable, but it will be challenging for your knees. Don’t try to do it too fast: part of the ritual is to enjoy the hike and the landscape. The views of the Aegean Sea are stunning.

When to visit & what to wear

Anafi is a remote island in the Cyclades complex. As you can easily imagine, there are no trees on the Monolith (that’s, anyway, the rule in the Cyclades). Therefore, you should never try to reach Kalamiotissa when the sun is at its peak. Avoid anything between 12:00 and 16:00 in the summer. Even in late spring or autumn, you should avoid these times. If, for whatever reason, you do it during this timeframe, then bring lots of water with you and take breaks. But even if you do have provisions and all, I would never suggest any hiking activity between 12 and 4 p.m.

As you can easily understand, the best times to visit the Kalamiotissa Monastery are either early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Waking up early in the morning and taking the hike around 8-9 o’clock sounds optimal. You can be back by noon without risking exhaustion. On the other hand, lots of visitors prefer the late afternoon option. That’s because some of the travelers decide to bring a sleeping bag and spend the night there. People say that you can see the most beautiful sunrise of your life. If you do that, keep in mind that you should bring a light jacket or pullover, even in the summer. It’ll be cold and windy up there, even if there’s a heatwave during the day.

And this brings us to the next question: what to wear? Well, first of all, you should wear the most comfortable shoes you have. Forget flip-flops, sandals, or anything easy-going: you won’t make it for more than 100 meters. Sports shoes are your best option here. Choose your most comfortable ones, and you’ll be fine. If you don’t plan to spend the night there and you’re visiting between May and October, you won’t need anything more than a T-shirt. It’s always rather hot, and you’ll sweat a lot on the way up.

How long does it take to reach Panagia Kalamiotissa?

The moment you start hiking, you’ll see a sign saying that it takes approximately one hour and fifteen minutes to reach Kalamiotissa. I think you’ll be more on the safe side if you calculate one hour and thirty minutes. Don’t see the ascent to the Monolith as a personal bet: the point is to appreciate nature, not to exhaust yourself. Plus, if you are not super fit or in top form, it’s wiser to take it slowly. Wear comfortable shoes and always have enough water with you. Get also something to eat: there’s nothing to buy after you leave the Chora of Anafi.

The first time I hiked to the Monastery, it took me one hour and twenty-five minutes. Even though the path was well-marked, I still had to search for the signs sometimes. And since I didn’t know how steep it would be afterward, I took two small breaks. The second time it took me one hour and fifteen minutes. And, the third year I visited Anafi, I reached the Monastery after one hour and two minutes. Subsequently, for the way down, I needed between fifty-five minutes and one hour and ten.

However, as I wrote above, don’t take it too fast on the way down; otherwise, you might hurt your knees.

Do locals hold celebrations for the Kalamiotissa Monastery?

Yes, they do. In fact, it’s probably the most important celebration on the island. It always takes place on the 8th of September, but the preparations begin several days before. A large festival takes place under the sounds of traditional bagpipes and clarinets, and the people sing and dance. It’s not an exaggeration to say that all the inhabitants of Anafi are at the Monastery every 8th of September. The views of the Aegean Sea are spectacular, and the folk festival is always something memorable.

Is the Kalamiotissa Monastery open to the public?

Most of the time, the Kalamiotissa Monastery remains closed to the public. There’s no one living there anymore, and therefore it’s not easy to see the interior. However, during the summertime, there are some opening hours. From mid-July to mid-September, you can usually visit the Monastery twice per week. Even if it’s not a rule, it’s open between 08:00 and 14:00, usually on Wednesdays and Saturdays. But as I said, it’s not a rule. Your best bet is to ask the locals at the Chora. They’ll definitely know, and they’ll help you to visit it.

Final thoughts & my Anafi resources

I visited Anafi for five consecutive years and hope to visit it this year too. Every year, I’ll save a day for hiking to the Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa. It became somehow a ritual and also a way to better understand local life. You don’t have to be religious in order to enjoy the trekking path. Nature lovers or hiking aficionados will appreciate it a lot too. The cliffs of the Kalamos Monolith create stunning scenery, and the view from the top is the best reward. Don’t forget to bring a camera with you.

If you’re not new to the blog, you already know how much I love Anafi. I try to return always to this hidden gem in the Aegean Sea. In case you feel triggered to visit the island, I’m adding here all my Anafi resources. These are travelogues, local guides, plus a book that I’ve written about the island. Specifically:

• I’ve written two travelogues about Anafi. Here’s the first travelogue from Anafi, and here’s the second one (which is more of a love letter). And I also once imagined that Wim Wenders visited the island.
• In case you need a guide for the island, look no further. My travel guide to Anafi is for months on the first page of Google.
• I have also uploaded two photo reports about the island: a set of polaroids from Anafi and a series of photos from the journey with the ferry.
• Also, if you are visiting Athens, there’s a neighborhood that looks like Anafi straight beneath the Acropolis. Learn the story of Anafiotika and its connection to the island.
• Last but not least, I’ve also written a book about Anafi. There are currently two versions, the regular and the limited.

If you visit Anafi, make sure to save half a day for visiting the Monastery of Kalamiotissa and the impressive Kalamos Monolith. You won’t regret it even if you feel tired afterward.

More religious sites in Greece: The Hozoviotissa Monastery, Agia Fotini Mantineias

More Greek islands guides: The islands on a budget, Travel guide to Astypalaia, Visit Sikinos, Visit Schinoussa

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Last Updated on August 26, 2023 by George Pavlopoulos