Last Updated on September 5, 2026 by George Pavlopoulos
Before visiting New York for the first time, Roosevelt Island had already grabbed my attention on the map. Seeing this narrow strip of land floating in the East River right next to Manhattan triggered my curiosity. I knew people lived on its soil, but I had no idea how it actually felt to be there and explore. Honestly, I didn’t even know if Roosevelt Island was worth visiting.
But for sure, I was tempted.
One thing I could imagine (and it was probably the reason I visited it on my second trip to New York) was that the views of Manhattan should be stunning. Despite enjoying being among the crowds, the traffic, and walking past skyscrapers, I also thought I might deserve to enjoy the city at a slower pace. Instead of walking or cycling in Manhattan, I decided to see Manhattan across the water.
As you will soon read, there might not be tons of things to do on Roosevelt Island, as this is not a place packed with must-see attractions, museums, or fancy restaurants. However, there is enough history to offer different angles on your NYC journey and, most importantly, a strange feeling of being both outside and inside New York at the same time.
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Where in New York is Roosevelt Island?
Roosevelt Island is a narrow, oblong island in the East River, located between Manhattan and Queens. Although it’s administratively part of Manhattan, it doesn’t really feel like it. The moment I set foot on the island, I felt like I was on a veranda overlooking Manhattan. The fact that it doesn’t quite belong anywhere is part of its charm, and honestly, that’s a feeling I had only there.
Although it’s visible from Midtown, once you arrive, you will be surprised: no crowds, almost nonexistent traffic, lower buildings, and empty spaces. While it is still New York (actually, very New York), the island feels a tad more remote than it really is.
Throughout its history, Roosevelt Island has had several names and uses before becoming what it is today. While this is not unique per se, because land use in big cities has changed over the centuries, it was formerly known as Blackwell’s Island and later as Welfare Island. Those names might sound relatively faceless today, but the truth is they were connected to its institutional past. The island had hospitals, asylums, and places that New York preferred to keep away from its city center.
Today, you can only glimpse those old names and the island’s previous life through some ruins and details.
How to get to Roosevelt Island in New York
There are various ways to reach Roosevelt Island, but the most popular is the Roosevelt Island Tramway.
The tram connects Roosevelt Island with Manhattan from the station located at 59th Street and 2nd Avenue. What makes it special is that the tram rides above the East River. Although it might look like a funicular, it’s not: it’s an aerial tram, and the ride is short yet scenic. For me, this is one of the most memorable ways to arrive anywhere in New York. I suggest that you do at least one leg of your visit with it.
You can also get to Roosevelt Island by subway using the F train, and depending on your route, you can also access it by the NYC Ferry. Lastly, if you are starting from Queens, there’s also a direct bus to the island.
One thing worth mentioning while on the island is the Red Bus, a free local bus operated by the Roosevelt Island Operating Corporation, which circulates around the island. Although you can easily walk the entire island, the Red Bus offers a great shortcut, especially if you don’t have that much time. I used the bus for part of my visit, and it was great to see details I would have otherwise missed.
Walking around Roosevelt Island
Because of its shape and size, Roosevelt Island is very walkable. Thanks to its oblong shape, it’s very easy to navigate (technically, it’s a north-to-south route, or vice versa), which means you can walk across the water or cross the central streets.
Walking around Roosevelt Island felt, of course, different from Manhattan. I can’t say that every corner or every spot is beautiful, but the mixture of residential parts with historic sights makes it interesting.
What I found touching, though, was the fact that both the north and south tips are dedicated exclusively to history. As you will read, there’s no real estate to buy or sell there; it’s history and the island’s forgotten footprint in the city.
Cornell Tech and the polished face of Roosevelt Island
If you arrive by subway or the aerial tram, the first thing you’ll come across will most likely be the Cornell Tech Campus. Occupying part of the southern section of the island, the campus gives a different atmosphere from what you’d expect.
It’s true: the campus feels modern and at times too polished. There you’ll see the architecture you’re used to in New York, with glass buildings, open spaces, and river views. The campus also has a cafe, so if you feel like having a cup of coffee and observing life around you, that’s one of your best chances to do so.
Then, it’s just a short walk to visit the hospital ruins, which are one of the must-see things on Roosevelt Island, and will also connect you to the island’s story.
The Smallpox Hospital ruins
Hands down, the most striking sight I saw on Roosevelt Island was the Smallpox Hospital ruins. It was actually the spot that motivated me even more to visit the island, and I believe it’s a must-visit.
Also known as the Renwick Ruin, the hospital is today a fenced, rundown building that is partly preserved. You cannot enter it, but this relic is a martyr of the past: the island once served as a quarantine location for people with smallpox. Standing next to the clean and modern architecture of Cornell Tech, this old hospital shows the fate of such islands attached to big cities.
One can only imagine how it felt back in the day, as this was a place of illness and death. From there, you can see the Manhattan skyline, so close and yet so far.
Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms State Park
After the Smallpox Hospital, the space becomes even emptier and opens onto a park. It follows the lines and atmosphere of Cornell, being well-designed and somehow absorbing the island’s past use.
The Four Freedoms State Park opened to the public in 2012, and what I enjoyed most here was how the city opens up around you. Surrounded by water was the best way I could describe it, because you have Manhattan on one side and Queens on the other.
On its edge, you will see the granite-made Room where you can feel the wind blowing and frame your view over New York City. There you have to stop and reflect, and when I arrived on the island’s southern tip, I couldn’t remember the memorial’s name. I thought it was called the Roosevelt Window, which might be oddly accurate (yet wrong).
The Girl Puzzle and Nellie Bly
Instead of walking all the way up to the northern tip, I decided to take the Red bus. I wanted to see the monument called The Girl Puzzle, honoring the journalist Nellie Bly.
Bly is connected to Roosevelt Island because of her deep journalistic work on its soil. She went there undercover to report the conditions and daily lives at the women’s asylum that once operated on the island. The monument, created by artist Amanda Matthews, is a heartbreaking park of statues honoring Nellie Bly and the women who experienced confinement and marginalization.
Despite its photogenic appearance, the monument is deeply connected to Roosevelt Island’s former use and its darker days. For me, monuments like this (impressive, haunting, and in the prime spots of a place) definitely make history harder to ignore.
Behind the monument, you will also see the Blackwell Island Lighthouse. And a few minutes away, there’s also the Octagon, which served as the New York City Lunatic Asylum (!), which is also connected to Nellie Bly’s work on the island. Today, it is a residential building.
How much time do you need on Roosevelt Island?
I think you need at least three hours for Roosevelt Island if you want to see it properly. Visiting the locations I mentioned above, plus taking a step back to reflect upon its dark past, makes three hours a reasonable timeframe.
In three hours, you can ride the tram, walk the southern part of the island where the Smallpox Hospital ruins and the Four Freedoms State Park are, and then take the Red Bus to the Nellie Bly Monument. In between, you’ll have the chance to stop for a coffee at Cornell Tech.
I would only spend half a day on Roosevelt Island if you’d really like to walk north to south and make your visit a totally different experience.
Is Roosevelt Island worth visiting?
Yes, I firmly believe Roosevelt Island is worth visiting for its dark history and terrific views of Manhattan. However, this might not be for everyone, or on every New York trip. Let me explain what I mean.
If that’s your first time in New York and you only have a limited time in the city (like 3-4 days), I probably wouldn’t put it above the major sights. For example, I would prefer to see the classic NYC locations like Ellis Island, MoMA, or the Guggenheim Museum, and this is a well-justified decision.
However, if you have already visited New York or your journey lasts more than a week, and you enjoy slower walks, Roosevelt Island is a great option for a different layer of New York. While the Manhattan views are top-class, what matters to me is that the island offers a different version of the city. Here you will see the less obvious, the less ordinary, the less commercial, and a deeper aspect of New York City.
My suggested Roosevelt Island route
If I had to suggest one route on Roosevelt Island, then it would be the one that I also followed.
- Take the Roosevelt Island Tramway from Manhattan and enjoy the scenic views.
- Walk south through Cornell Tech, and if you have enough time, drink a cup of coffee.
- Stop at the striking ruins of the Smallpox Hospital.
- Continue to Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms State Park.
- Afterward, return toward the center of the island.
- Use the Red Bus (or walk if you have time and prefer to enjoy everything at a slower pace).
- See The Girl Puzzle and the Nellie Bly monument, together with the Blackwell Island Lighthouse and the Octagon just behind the bus stop.
- Return by tram, subway, ferry, or bus to New York.
I think this is the fastest way to make the most of your visit to Roosevelt Island without spending more time than you intend. You will see the most important spots and understand the island’s footprint on the city’s life, as well as its forgotten history.
Final thoughts on Roosevelt Island
Roosevelt Island was for me exactly the kind of place I’m searching for when I’m traveling. After unlocking the initial layers of a city, I always enjoy visiting the secondary and less obvious locations to dig deeper and enrich the story.
It’s true that Roosevelt Island isn’t packed with attractions. However, the fact that this island served as a quarantine site during the city’s tougher, darker times was enough for me to visit it. While the Manhattan views were breathtaking, I didn’t think the island was detached from the city. As I wrote earlier, when I set foot, I felt I was both inside and outside New York. But when I left, this feeling was gone. It still felt like New York, though, only quieter and somehow deeper: the people who suffered weren’t there anymore, but their stories were still inhabiting the island.
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