Things to do in Donoussa – The ultimate travel guide

Donoussa -or Donousa- is one of the most stunning islands in the Cyclades. The island is a paradise for hiking and swimming, featuring turquoise waters, impressive cliffs, and breathtaking landscapes. In this travel guide, you will read about the best things to do in Donoussa, and I will offer you several tips for food and accommodation.

Donoussa (Δονούσα in Greek) is a perfect summer getaway for travelers who enjoy remote and less crowded places. The small Greek islands are always the most beautiful ones, and visiting Donousa guarantees a relaxing vacation. Everything here is about the raw experience and easy-going days. Moreover, the food in Donoussa is delicious, and you can unwind in some of the most beautiful tavernas in the Aegean Sea.

Navigate through the sections of this guide and find everything you need to know before visiting the island. If you want to see more images and read my impressions from Donoussa, you can read my travelogue. Below, you will also find a 4K travel video from this stunning island, the gem of the Lesser Cyclades.

So, let’s start now with the travel guide to Donoussa and the must-do things on the island.

*Some of the links are affiliate links. It means that if you buy something, I might earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

How to get to Donoussa

Donoussa is part of the Lesser Cyclades, sometimes also called Small Cyclades. While it’s part of the Cyclades complex, the Lesser Cyclades is a (let’s call it) subcomplex, including also Schinoussa, Iraklia, and Koufonisia. That said, one can combine all these islands and spend some days at each one.

Several ferries reach Donoussa and the Lesser Cyclades, even though you should not expect daily service. Here’s how you can get to Donoussa.

From Piraeus to Donoussa

Now, your safest option to travel to Donoussa is to take the ferry from Piraeus. The line is served by Blue Star Ferries, and the journey takes slightly more than 7 hours. If ferry journeys stress you, I’m here to comfort you: the ferry is huge, and you won’t feel the waves, no matter how strong the wind is. I find it very hard to get seasick or nauseous due to the size of the boat. If you are too worried about it, consider taking a pill before traveling.

And here’s an extra tip: get a business class seat. The business class seats on the Blue Star Ferries are located on the top level. There you won’t have to cope with the so-called airplane seats. What you’ll see is a big room with lots of breathing space and sofas. The business class is really comfortable, even a tad old-fashioned, it has its own private bar, and there are also waiters. It usually costs 8-10 euros more per person per route than regular tickets, and it’s a no-brainer for me.

Finally, if you can afford the cost, you can also book a cabin. The Blue Star Ferries offer beautiful cabins where you can relax and sleep. Of course, cabins come at a cost, especially those with a window to the open sea. More or less, you should expect them to cost twice the price of the regular ticket. I wrote an extensive review about the Blue Star Ferries cabins, so if this sounds tempting, check out the article.

From elsewhere in the Cyclades to Donousa

Now, if you are not starting from Athens or Piraeus to Donoussa, but you are already in the Cyclades, there’s also a tiny ferry serving just the Cyclades. The Skopelitis ferry is a legendary vessel of the Greek sea, running for almost half a century. That’s a relatively small boat that will bring you to Donoussa from most Cycladic islands. Also, that’s how you could do some island-hopping in the Cyclades if you are not willing to spend your entire vacation on one island. However, keep in mind that traveling with Skopelitis is shaky most of the time.

To Donoussa by plane

There’s no airport at Donoussa. Therefore, you can’t reach Donoussa directly by plane. However, there’s a workaround. If long journeys by boat are not your thing, you can fly from Athens to Naxos. There are several flights daily between Athens and Naxos during summertime, and if you choose the early morning one, you can take the afternoon ferry from Naxos to Donoussa. It’s a short one-hour ride to Donoussa (~1 hour and 30 minutes), plus you can spend a couple of hours in Naxos.

Check your flight options from Athens to Naxos here.

I always book my ferry tickets via Ferries In Greece, and you can use the interactive widget below to find your itinerary to Donoussa.

Where to stay in Donoussa

Donoussa is a tiny island with less than 200 permanent inhabitants. During summertime, though, tourism brings way more people to the island. However, the accommodation infrastructure is not that advanced, and the rooms are somewhat limited. In the last couple of years, new accommodation facilities appeared in Donoussa, but you should not expect resorts or things like that. They would be incompatible with the spirit of the island anyway. Therefore, you will mainly find basic rooms and a couple of more upscale ones.

The majority of rooms are in Stavros, the biggest settlement of Donoussa, where the port is also located. Therefore, Stavros is the best option for accommodation in Donoussa if you don’t have your own car (keep in mind that there’s no gas station on the island). At Stavros, you have several dining options, two bars, and a mini-market; that’s also where the bus starts to the beaches. So, if you a) don’t plan to isolate yourself fully or b) you don’t want to struggle from traveling back and forth for provisions, that’s the place you should stay.

Where I stayed in Donoussa

For my stay in Donoussa, I chose Althea Studios. Located slightly off the main settlement, Althea offers spacious modern rooms with a traditional touch. All rooms have a kitchen, a TV, and an air-conditioner, but their beautiful verandas are the biggest plus. The verandas overlook the port of Schinoussa, and within ten minutes, you can reach Stavros Beach and the restaurants.

If you choose Althea, keep in mind that you’ll have to walk a dirt road when you’re heading towards the center of the settlement. It’s a short walk of fewer than ten minutes, and at night, it’s rather dark (there are some lights here and there). If that’s something you don’t mind, then on the way back, you’ll enjoy a starlit sky and spectacular views of the Milky Way.

The best hotels in Stavros, Donoussa

There are several other places for your accommodation in Stavros. The best options for your stay are the following:

• Ammos Studios. Located at Stavros, Ammos are stylish small apartments in the middle of everything. Check the availability at Ammos Studios here.
• Pachivouni. Newly built suites with a view not far from the center. See the Pachivouni Suites here.
• Makares. One more fine option at Stavros. Decent prices, very clean rooms. Check Makares here.
• Firoa Studios. This is one more fine option for accommodation in Donoussa. It is also located at Stavros. See Firoa Studios here.

Other accommodation options

Now, if you enjoy isolation, the small village of Kalotaritissa also has a couple of places to stay. Please keep in mind that this is a tiny village, without a mini-market and just a (fantastic!) taverna by the sea. There’s no nightlife or other facilities; it will be just you and the sea (check the Kalotaritissa beaches in the next section).

The best option for your stay in Kalotaritissa is Vegera Beach House, a spacious place with fantastic views and proximity to the three beaches of the settlement. If you enjoy staying away from crowds and nightlife, look no further.

Two travel tips about Donoussa

1. Donoussa advertises itself as a plastic-free island, and that’s awesome. However, Donoussa is not mosquito-free: there are loads of them during dusk, and it’s better to have either a spray against them or buy an anti-mosquito device from the local mini-market. You just plug it in the socket and feed the device daily with tablets. Alternatively, you can bring from home some anti-mosquito spirals to keep them away from you.

2. Before the pandemic, free camping was very popular in Donoussa. If you are a free camper and are willing to travel to Donoussa, keep in mind that it’s currently prohibited on most beaches, and you will probably get a fine and be asked to leave the island. According to the locals, at Kedros, you’ll be fined for camping, while at Livadi, it seems to be somehow tolerated.

Check all your accommodation options in Donoussa in the interactive map below.

Booking.com

Where to eat and drink in Donousa Greece

There are just a handful of places to eat and drink in Donoussa. Enjoying a delicious meal is definitely one of the best things to do in Donoussa. I found the food to be overall good, and I’m adding here all the restaurants I visited on the island. Most of them operate for many years in a row, and I assume that they will be there for decades to come.

Iliovasilema. Located on the port’s left side, Iliovasilema (which stands for sunset in Greek) is a great dining option. I ate there most of the time because the food was delicious, and the personnel was extremely polite. Plus, the sea view, together with the moonlight, creates a stunning atmosphere. In addition, the prices at Iliovasilema are reasonable.

Mitsos. That’s one of the two taverns on this guide to Donoussa that is actually not located at Stavros. The taverna of Mitsos lies at Kalotaritissa, and it’s the only eatery in the settlement. It’s hands down one of the most magical places in the Cyclades. Located literally in the middle of nowhere, the taverna offers just a couple of homemade dishes -and each one of them is delicious. I guess everybody comes here for the meat patties (biftekia in Greek) but do try the other dishes as well. Keep in mind that you can return to Stavros either with the last bus or call the only taxi on the island.

A tip: Believe it or not, there’s not much fish to eat in Donoussa. This is probably due to low demand but also because of the strong wind of the island that prevents boats from fishing. However, if you decide to spend the day at the beaches of Kalotaritissa, stop by Mitsos before swimming and ask if they have fish. Sometimes they have some fish, and you can reserve one (or more) for later. Be prepared to spend some money -but their fish deserves every single penny.

Avli. Also located in Stavros, Avli is the (let’s call it) posh restaurant on the island. It serves gourmet dishes in a pleasant environment—and it will cost you some extra cash. You should definitely book a table in advance. It’s not my piece of cake when I’m on such a small island, but that’s a matter of taste, I guess.

Ampelaki. A pizza place in Stavros. The food is okay, but the white electricity bulbs are a dealbreaker for me.

Captain George. Another tavern at Stavros and actually the only fish tavern on the island. The fish is delicious, but the shiny white bulbs are unbearable again. The place also feels a bit tight.

To Kyma. Located almost straight at the port, To Kyma (the wave in Greek) is a taverna that advertises its dishes as homemade. They definitely are, but I found them a bit bland for my taste. It has a great view of the small port of Donoussa and is one of the places to see and be seen. Slightly pricey.

Tzi-Tzi. That’s the second tavern on this list that it’s not at Stavros. You can find it at Mersini, which is a fifteen-minute ride by bus. You can combine Tzi-Tzi with a visit to Livadi beach and eat there. Very decent food with the most spectacular view on the island.

Enalia. Very close to Kyma and straight at the port of Donoussa, Enalia is the place to have a cup of coffee and a dessert. I went crazy with the so-called (hold your breath) biskotoglyko, a dessert based on biscuits, cream, and chocolate. Enalia is one of the nicest places on the island. Straight above Enalia, you will also find the only place you can buy cigarettes on the island.

The bars of Donoussa

Apart from the eateries, Donoussa also has two bars. While both of them serve some light snacks, food is not the reason you’ll visit them. Both of them stay open until 3-4 am, and there you’ll enjoy a drink and unwind. Cocktails on both could be better, but their location is unbeatable.

Skantzohiros. That’s the bar on the very right side of the island and a great place to enjoy a drink with a view of the port. Not your typical beach bar, Skantzohiros (the hedgehog in Greek) is rather big, and the music varies. It’s going to be usually full of people in a good mood.

Corona Borealis. Visiting a place called Corona during the pandemic might sound ironic, but that’s a typical beach bar in Donoussa. Located straight at Stavros’s beach, Corona Borealis has a pure island feeling and loud music all night long.

The beaches of Donoussa (& other things to do)

Most of you will travel to Donoussa for swimming and lazy times at the beach. And honestly, that’s probably one of the best things to do in Donoussa. The weather will always be pleasant, the sun will shine, and the sea will be welcoming even though slightly cold. Donoussa is one of these islands that will let you immerse in their slow rhythms, and you will relax completely just after a couple of days.

Now, as I said, swimming is exactly what you should do in Donoussa. The beaches are marvelous, and some of them are among the most beautiful in the Cyclades. While you should not miss the opportunity to visit as many as possible, if you at some point find a favorite one, stick to it. It will be your way to feel like a local on the island, and you will develop a personal routine. So, the beaches of Donoussa I visited are:

Stavros beach

That’s the beach of the main settlement, and it’s actually a beautiful one. While it will most likely be crowded, the water is crystal clear. What’s also a plus is that you can just walk straight from your accommodation and you won’t have to take the bus. Let alone that you are close to Corona Borealis for a drink or lunch. So if you appreciate laziness during your vacation and are not keen on moving around, that’s probably your beach.

Kedros beach

Close to Stavros, you’ll find the beautiful Kedros beach. It’s a short 15-minute walk to Kedros, and the landscape is breathtaking. You’ll have to climb down a path -and you can see the eternal blue nonstop. There’s also a beach bar at Kedros, which means you don’t have to carry water or provisions. Bring your goggles: ten meters into the sea, you’ll see the leftovers of an old German boat bombed by the British army during WWII.

Livadi beach

That’s, in my opinion, the most beautiful beach in Donoussa. Also, even though it’s a bit tiring, one of the best things to do in Donoussa was climbing up and down the rutty path. Turquoise waters, blonde sand, and a vibe you won’t easily find anywhere on the island.

There are two options for reaching Livadi. The first one is taking the bus from Stavros, stopping at Mersini (2,50 euros), and walking the path for 25 minutes. Subsequently, you’ll have to climb the hill to get the bus, and you should allow at least 30 minutes for that. Bring a proper pair of shoes, and don’t miss the chance to enjoy the views of Amorgos from the Agia Sofia church at Mersini while waiting for the bus.

The second option is to take the small boat from the port of Stavros, called Donoussa Magissa (Δονούσα Μάγισσα in Greek). This is a far easier option as you will disembark straight at the beach of Livadi. Donoussa Magissa also stops at Kedros, and it continues to Fokospilia, an impressive cave where you can swim for half an hour. It’s also a pricier option: it costs 15 euros return. But the real dealbreaker for me was the loud traditional music that came from the boat at all times. It seemed like outdated folklore (and cheap as well), and I couldn’t stand it.

Fykio

The beach of Fykio is next to Livadi, but you should take a different path in order to reach it. It takes pretty much the same time, and you will most likely be on your own there. Not so sandy and definitely rockier, Fykio is a good option if you’d like to visit a place that most people won’t see.

The Kalotaritissa beaches

Now, at Kalotaritissa, you actually have three beaches. The most beautiful of the three is Trypiti, a typical nudist beach. It doesn’t mean that you must do skinny-dipping, but if you’d like to go naked in the water, no one will even care. Trypiti is a tiny bay with impressive water -and some sea urchins, so keep an eye on them. It’s also the most distant of the three beaches at Kalotaritissa: expect a fifteen-minute easy hike to the beach from the moment you leave the bus. You can buy water from the Taverna Mitsos before going to the beach.

The other two beaches at Kalotaritissa are Mesa Ammos and Sapounochoma. The first is the sandy beach straight in front of the taverna, while the latter lies just a few meters before entering the settlement. Mesa Ammos is sandy, while Sapounochoma is full of pebbles. Once again, at Sapounochoma, keep an eye on sea urchins.

Donoussa beach-essentials

I’m adding a small note about two things you should bring with you. As I wrote earlier, the beaches of Donoussa have no sunbeds or umbrellas. However, Donoussa is a dry island, meaning there are no trees or tiny bits of shadow. If you get easily sunburned or can’t simply stand the heat, it’s better to bring a pop-up beach tent with you and sunscreen.

The pop-up beach tent will probably fit in your suitcase, but even if it doesn’t, it’s lightweight, and you can have it in hand. Here’s my pop-up tent, and here’s a bigger one.

As for the sunscreen, I’m not an expert, but I had one with me. Sunscreen like this one should be enough for most people.

Other things to do in Donoussa

Most of the things to do in Donoussa are obviously related to swimming. Apart from that, due to its impressive landscape, Donoussa is also an excellent place for hiking. While there are not many hiking trails (find a map here), one of them is actually beautiful. You can walk from Stavros to Kalotaritissa. It’s better to do it after 17:30 when the sun is no longer intense. It takes approximately one and a half hours, and you can enjoy breathtaking views and get a good overview of the island. Plus, if you want selfies with goats, that’s your opportunity to do it.

Taking a ride with the Donoussa Magissa boat is also a must for many people. As I wrote earlier, though, it was too much with this loud folk music for me. It’s definitely not my thing, but without sacrificing some peace of mind, you won’t be able to visit Fokospilia, the impressive cave at sea. Check the schedule at the port: the vessel leaves straight in front of the Kyma tavern.

How to budget for Donoussa, Greece

Even if it is a remote island, Donoussa is still part of the Cyclades, and everything comes at a price. While it is not as expensive as Santorini, Donoussa doesn’t feel as cheap as Anafi, for example. If you are willing to visit Donoussa during summertime, you should expect to pay anything between 60 and 100 euros per room per night. On the other hand, food is reasonably priced: for a starter, a main dish, and half a liter of homemade wine, you won’t pay more than 25-30 euros per person.

One extra expense during your stay in Donoussa will be bottled water. While it is okay to shower or brush your teeth, you should avoid drinking tap water in Donoussa. This won’t be a significant expense, though: water in Greece is valorized, and you should not pay more than 1 euro for a 1,5 L bottle. Carrying packs of water from the local mini-market might not sound tempting. Instead, I preferred to buy two water bottles every night at the restaurant and bring them to the hotel.

As I wrote earlier, the beaches in Donoussa are not organized. You won’t find sunbeds or umbrellas. Therefore, you won’t have to pay anything for your time at the beach. The only extra expense will be the bus ticket. A bus ride from Stavros to Kalotaritissa costs 3 euros per person, while the cost from Stavros to Mersini is 2,50 euros per person. You won’t need a bus to reach Kedros Beach; it’s just a 15-20 minute walk, depending on which side of Stavros you’re staying on.

Unfortunately, you cannot rent a car in Donoussa. There is no gas station in Donoussa, and the locals get their gasoline once every month or two after ordering it in advance. So you’ll have to bring your own car if you want to feel independent but ensure you don’t run out of gasoline.

If you don’t want to depend on the bus, there’s also one taxi in Donoussa. You can call it anytime, and it will pick you up wherever you are. The longest distance, from Stavros to Kalotaritissa, costs 15-20 euros by taxi. Your smartphone won’t probably have any signal in Donoussa, so make sure to either arrange things in advance or call from a landline (e.g., from a taverna).

All that said, I would calculate approximately 100 euros per day per person for your stay in Donoussa. This includes accommodation, one proper meal per day, a light snack in the afternoon, your water for the day, bus rides, and a drink in the bar. Obviously, the price will rise if you go for a more upscale room and move a lot by taxi or have several cocktails per night. But that’s what I paid approximately during my stay.

If you have more questions about the island, feel free to ask in the comments below. Enjoy Donoussa!

Discover more about Donoussa: Travelogue & more photos from Donoussa

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Last Updated on April 9, 2024 by George Pavlopoulos