Things to do in Donoussa: Best Beaches, Walks and Travel Tips

Last Updated on April 24, 2026 by George Pavlopoulos

Donoussa -or Donousa- is one of the most beautiful islands in the Cyclades. With turquoise waters, impressive cliffs, scenic walks, and a wonderfully slow pace of life, it is an ideal place for travelers who want a quieter kind of summer holiday in Greece. In this guide, you will find the best things to do in Donoussa, along with practical tips on beaches, food, accommodation, and planning your vacation.

Donoussa (Δονούσα in Greek) is ideal for people who enjoy remote, less crowded places. Small Greek islands often leave the strongest impression, and Donoussa is, in my opinion, one of them. Everything here feels simple and unforced: long swims, good food, beautiful views, and the kind of easy-going atmosphere that almost dictates you to slow down.

This Donoussa guide covers everything you need to know before visiting the island: the best beaches and hiking trails, where to eat and stay, and how to organize your trip. If you would like to see more photos and read my personal impressions of the island, you can also check out my Donoussa travelogue. Below, you will also find a 4K travel video from this beautiful island, one of the gems of the Lesser Cyclades.

So, let’s start with the best things to do in Donoussa and everything you need to know before visiting the island.

*Some of the links are affiliate links. It means that if you buy something, I might earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

How to get to Donoussa

Donoussa is part of the Lesser Cyclades, sometimes also called the Small Cyclades. While it’s part of the Cyclades complex, the Lesser Cyclades are a (let’s call it) subcomplex, including also Schinoussa, Iraklia, and Koufonisia. That said, one can visit all these islands and spend a few days at each.

Several ferries reach Donoussa and the Lesser Cyclades, even though you should not expect daily service. Here’s how you can get to Donoussa.

From Piraeus to Donoussa

Now, your safest option to travel to Donoussa is to take the ferry from Piraeus. The line is served by Blue Star Ferries, and the journey takes slightly more than 7 hours. If ferry journeys stress you, I’m here to comfort you: the ferry is huge, and you won’t feel the waves, no matter how strong the wind is. I find it very hard to get seasick or nauseated on the boat because of its size. If you are too worried about it, consider taking a pill before traveling.

And here’s an extra tip: consider upgrading to a business class seat. The business-class seats on Blue Star Ferries are on the top deck. There you won’t have to cope with the so-called airplane seats. What you’ll see is a big room with lots of breathing space and sofas. The business class is really comfortable, even a tad old-fashioned; it has its own private bar and waiters. It usually costs 10-12 euros more per person per route than regular tickets, and it’s a no-brainer for me.

Finally, if you can afford the cost, you can also book a cabin. The Blue Star Ferries offer beautiful cabins where you can relax and sleep. Of course, cabins come at a cost, especially those with a window to the open sea. More or less, you should expect them to cost twice the price of the regular ticket.

I wrote an extensive review about the Blue Star Ferries cabins, so if this sounds tempting, check out the article.

From elsewhere in the Cyclades to Donousa

Now, if you are not starting from Athens or Piraeus to Donoussa, but you are already in the Cyclades, there’s also a tiny ferry serving just the Cyclades. The Skopelitis ferry is a legendary vessel of the Greek sea, running for almost half a century. That’s a relatively small boat that will bring you to Donoussa from most Cycladic islands.

Also, that’s how you could do some island-hopping in the Cyclades if you are not willing to spend your entire vacation on one island. However, keep in mind that traveling with Skopelitis is shaky most of the time.

To Donoussa by plane

There’s no airport at Donoussa. Therefore, you can’t reach Donoussa directly by plane. However, there’s a workaround. If long journeys by boat are not your thing, you can fly from Athens to Naxos. There are several flights daily between Athens and Naxos during summertime, and if you choose the early morning one, you can take the afternoon ferry from Naxos to Donoussa. It’s a short one-hour ride to Donoussa (~1 hour and 30 minutes), plus you can spend a couple of hours in Naxos.

Check your flight options from Athens to Naxos here.

I always book my ferry tickets via Ferries In Greece, and you can use the interactive widget below to find your itinerary to Donoussa.

Where to stay in Donoussa

Donoussa is a tiny island with fewer than 200 permanent inhabitants. During summertime, though, tourism brings way more people to the island. However, the accommodation infrastructure is not that advanced, and the rooms are somewhat limited. In the last couple of years, new accommodation facilities appeared in Donoussa, but you should not expect resorts or things like that. They would be incompatible with the spirit of the island anyway. Therefore, you will mainly find basic rooms, along with a couple of more upscale ones.

The majority of rooms are in Stavros, the biggest settlement of Donoussa, where the port is also located. Therefore, Stavros is the best accommodation option in Donoussa if you don’t have your own car (keep in mind there’s no gas station on the island). At Stavros, you have several dining options, a bar, and a mini-market; that’s also where the bus to the beaches starts.

So, if you a) don’t plan to isolate yourself fully or b) you don’t want to struggle from traveling back and forth for provisions, that’s the place you should stay.

Where I stayed in Donoussa

For my stay in Donoussa, I chose Althea Studios. Located slightly off the main settlement, Althea offers spacious modern rooms with a traditional touch. All rooms have a kitchen, a TV, and an air-conditioner, but their beautiful verandas are the biggest plus. The verandas overlook the port of Schinoussa, and within ten minutes, you can reach Stavros Beach and the restaurants.

If you choose Althea, keep in mind that you’ll have to walk a dirt road when you’re heading towards the center of the settlement. It’s a short walk of fewer than ten minutes, and at night, it’s rather dark (there are some lights here and there). If that’s something you don’t mind, then on the way back, you’ll enjoy a starlit sky and spectacular views of the Milky Way.

The best hotels in Stavros, Donoussa

There are several other accommodation options in Stavros. The best options for your stay are the following:

• Ammos Studios. Located in Stavros, Ammos, these stylish small apartments are in the middle of everything. Check the availability at Ammos Studios here.
• Pachivouni. Newly built suites with a view not far from the center. See the Pachivouni Suites here.
• Makares. One more fine option at Stavros. Decent prices, very clean rooms. Check Makares here.
• Firoa Studios. This is another fine accommodation option in Donoussa. It is also located at Stavros. See Firoa Studios here.

Other accommodation options

Now, if you enjoy isolation, the small village of Kalotaritissa also has a couple of places to stay. Please keep in mind that this is a tiny village, without a mini-market and just a (fantastic!) taverna by the sea. There’s no nightlife or other facilities; it will be just you and the sea (check the Kalotaritissa beaches in the next section).

The best option for your stay in Kalotaritissa is Vegera Beach House, a spacious place with fantastic views and proximity to the three beaches of the settlement. If you enjoy staying away from crowds and nightlife, look no further.

Two travel tips about Donoussa

1. Donoussa advertises itself as a plastic-free island, and that’s awesome. However, Donoussa is not mosquito-free: there are loads of them at dusk, and it’s better to have either a spray or an anti-mosquito device from the local mini-market. You just plug it into the socket and feed the device daily with tablets. Alternatively, you can bring from home some anti-mosquito spirals to keep them away from you.

2. Before the pandemic, free camping was very popular in Donoussa. If you are a free camper willing to travel to Donoussa, keep in mind that it’s currently prohibited on most beaches, and you will likely get a fine and be asked to leave the island. According to locals, camping is prohibited at Kedros, while at Livadi it seems somewhat tolerated.

Check all your accommodation options in Donoussa in the interactive map below.

Where to eat and drink in Donousa, Greece

There are just a handful of places to eat and drink in Donoussa. Enjoying a delicious meal is definitely one of the best things to do in Donoussa. I found the food overall good, and I’m adding all the restaurants I visited on the island here. Most of them have operated for many years in a row, and I assume they will be there for decades to come.

Iliovasilema. Located on the port’s left, Iliovasilema (which means “sunset” in Greek) is a great dining option. I ate there most of the time because the food was delicious, and the personnel were extremely polite. Plus, the sea view, together with the moonlight, creates a stunning atmosphere. In addition, the prices at Iliovasilema are reasonable.

Mitsos. That’s one of the two taverns in this guide to Donoussa that isn’t actually located in Stavros. The taverna of Mitsos lies at Kalotaritissa, and it’s the only eatery in the settlement. It’s hands down one of the most magical places in the Cyclades. Located literally in the middle of nowhere, the taverna offers just a couple of homemade dishes -and each one of them is delicious. I guess everybody comes here for the meat patties (biftekia in Greek), but do try the other dishes as well. Keep in mind that you can return to Stavros either with the last bus or by calling one of the few taxis on the island.

A tip: Believe it or not, there’s not much fish to eat in Donoussa. This is probably not due to low demand, but because of the strong winds on the island that prevent boats from fishing. However, if you decide to spend the day at the beaches of Kalotaritissa, stop by Mitsos before swimming and ask if they have fish. Sometimes they have some fish, and you can reserve one (or more) for later. Be prepared to spend some money -but their fish deserves every single penny.

Avli. Also located in Stavros, Avli is the (let’s call it) posh restaurant on the island. It serves gourmet dishes in a pleasant environment—and it will cost you extra. You should definitely book a table in advance. It’s not my piece of cake when I’m on such a small island, but that’s a matter of preference, I guess.

Ampelaki. A pizza place in Stavros. The food is okay, but the white electricity bulbs are a dealbreaker for me.

Captain George. Another tavern at Stavros, and actually the only fish tavern on the island. The fish is delicious, but the shiny white bulbs are unbearable again. The place also feels a bit tight.

To Kyma. Located almost straight at the port, To Kyma (the wave in Greek) is a taverna that advertises its dishes as homemade. They definitely are, but I found them a bit bland for my taste. It has a great view of the small port of Donoussa and is one of the places to see and be seen. Slightly pricey.

Tzi-Tzi. That’s the second tavern on this list that’s not at Stavros. You can find it at Mersini, a 15-minute bus ride away. You can combine Tzi-Tzi with a visit to Livadi beach and eat there. Very decent food with the most spectacular view on the island.

Enalia. Very close to Kyma and straight at the port of Donoussa, Enalia is the place to have a cup of coffee and a dessert. I went crazy with the so-called (hold your breath) biskotoglyko, a dessert based on biscuits, cream, and chocolate. Enalia is one of the nicest places on the island. Straight above Enalia, you will also find the only place on the island where you can buy cigarettes.

The nightlife of Donoussa

Apart from the eateries, Donoussa also has a great bar where I enjoyed hanging out. Skantzohiros is the bar on the very right side of the island, and a great place to enjoy a drink with a view of the port. Not your typical beach bar, Skantzohiros (the hedgehog in Greek) is rather big, and the music varies. It’s usually full of people in a good mood and stays open till late.

As of 2023, Corona Borealis, right on Stavros’s beach, is not operating anymore. As you can tell, Donoussa is not the epicenter of nightlife, but a place to appreciate slow rhythms and a quiet vacation.

The beaches of Donoussa (& other things to do)

Most of you will travel to Donoussa for swimming and lazy times at the beach. And honestly, that’s probably one of the best things to do in Donoussa. The weather will always be pleasant, the sun will shine, and the sea will be welcoming, even though slightly cold. Donoussa is one of those islands that let you immerse yourself in its slow rhythms, and you will relax completely after a couple of days.

Now, as I said, swimming is exactly what you should do in Donoussa. The beaches are marvelous, and some of them are among the most beautiful in the Cyclades. While you should not miss the opportunity to visit as many as possible, if you at some point find a favorite one, stick to it. It will be your way to feel like a local on the island, and you will develop a personal routine. So, the beaches of Donoussa I visited are:

Stavros beach

That’s the beach of the main settlement, and it’s actually a beautiful one. While it will most likely be crowded, the water is crystal clear. Another plus is that you can walk straight from your accommodation, so you won’t have to take the bus. Let alone that you are close to Corona Borealis for a drink or lunch. So if you appreciate laziness on vacation and don’t mind staying put, that’s probably your beach.

Kedros beach

Close to Stavros, you’ll find the beautiful Kedros beach. It’s a short 15-minute walk to Kedros, and the landscape is breathtaking. You’ll have to climb down a path -and you can see the eternal blue nonstop. There’s also a beach bar at Kedros, which means you don’t have to carry water or provisions. Bring your goggles: ten meters into the sea, you’ll see the leftovers of an old German boat bombed by the British army during WWII.

Livadi beach

That’s, in my opinion, the most beautiful beach in Donoussa. Also, even though it’s a bit tiring, one of the best things to do in Donoussa was climbing up and down the rutty path. Turquoise waters, blonde sand, and a vibe you won’t easily find anywhere on the island.

There are two options for reaching Livadi. The first one is taking the bus from Stavros to Mersini (3 euros) and walking the path for 25 minutes. Subsequently, you’ll have to climb the hill to get the bus, and you should allow at least 30 minutes for that. Bring a proper pair of shoes, and don’t miss the chance to enjoy the views of Amorgos from the Agia Sofia church at Mersini while waiting for the bus.

The second option is to take the small boat from the port of Stavros, called Donoussa Magissa (Δονούσα Μάγισσα in Greek). This is a far easier option as you will disembark straight at the beach of Livadi. Donoussa Magissa also stops at Kedros, and it continues to Fokospilia, an impressive cave where you can swim for half an hour. It’s also a pricier option: it costs 20 euros return. But the real dealbreaker for me was the loud traditional music that came from the boat at all times. It seemed like outdated folklore (and cheap, too), and I couldn’t stand it.

Fykio

The beach of Fykio is next to Livadi, but you should take a different path in order to reach it. It takes about the same amount of time, and you will most likely be on your own there. Not so sandy and definitely rockier, Fykio is a good option if you’d like to visit a place that most people won’t see.

The Kalotaritissa beaches

Now, at Kalotaritissa, you actually have three beaches. The most beautiful of the three is Trypiti, a typical nudist beach. It doesn’t mean that you must do skinny-dipping, but if you’d like to go naked in the water, no one will even care. Trypiti is a tiny bay with impressive water -and some sea urchins, so keep an eye on them. It’s also the most distant of the three beaches at Kalotaritissa: expect a fifteen-minute easy hike to the beach from the moment you leave the bus. You can buy water at Taverna Mitsos before heading to the beach.

The other two beaches at Kalotaritissa are Mesa Ammos and Sapounochoma. The first is the sandy beach straight in front of the taverna, while the latter lies just a few meters before entering the settlement. Mesa Ammos is sandy, while Sapounochoma is full of pebbles. Once again, at Sapounochoma, keep an eye on sea urchins.

Donoussa beach-essentials

I’m adding a small note about two things you should bring with you. As I wrote earlier, the beaches of Donoussa have no sunbeds or umbrellas. However, Donoussa is a dry island, meaning there are no trees or tiny bits of shade. If you get easily sunburned or can’t simply stand the heat, it’s better to bring a pop-up beach tent with you and sunscreen.

The pop-up beach tent will probably fit in your suitcase, but even if it doesn’t, it’s lightweight and easy to carry in your hand. Here’s my pop-up tent, and here’s a bigger one.

As for the sunscreen, I’m not an expert, but I had one with me. A sunscreen like this should be enough for most people.

Hiking in Donoussa and other things to enjoy

Most of the activities in Donoussa are obviously related to swimming. Apart from its impressive landscape, Donoussa is also an excellent place for hiking. While there are not many hiking trails (find a map here), some of them are actually beautiful.

You can also walk from Stavros to Kalotaritissa. It’s better to do it after 17:30 when the sun is no longer intense. It takes approximately 1.5 hours, and you can enjoy breathtaking views and get a good overview of the island. Plus, if you want selfies with goats, that’s your opportunity to do it.

Taking a ride with the Donoussa Magissa boat is also a must for many people. As I wrote earlier, though, it was too much with this loud folk music for me. It’s definitely not my thing, but without sacrificing some peace of mind, you won’t be able to visit Fokospilia, the impressive cave at sea. Check the schedule at the port: the vessel leaves straight in front of the Kyma tavern.

FAQ and Donoussa Travel Tips

In the final section of this Donousa travel guide, I will reply to some frequently asked questions about the island. Consider them as travel tips for a smoother vacation in this remote Greek island.

How to budget for Donoussa?

Even if it is a remote island, Donoussa is still part of the Cyclades, and everything comes at a price. While it is not as expensive as Santorini, Donoussa doesn’t feel as cheap as Anafi, for example. If you are willing to visit Donoussa during the summer, you should expect to pay anything between 80 and 120 euros per room per night. On the other hand, food is reasonably priced: for a starter, a main dish, and half a liter of homemade wine, you should calculate approximately 30 euros per person.

One extra expense during your stay in Donoussa will be bottled water. While it is okay to shower or brush your teeth, you should avoid drinking tap water in Donoussa. This won’t be a significant expense, though: water in Greece is valorized, and you should not pay more than 1 euro for a 1,5 L bottle. Carrying water in packs from the local mini-market might not sound tempting. Instead, I preferred buying two water bottles every night at the restaurant and bringing them to the hotel.

Are the beaches of Donoussa organized with sunbeds and umbrellas?

The beaches in Donoussa are not organized. You won’t find sunbeds or umbrellas on the island. Therefore, you won’t have to pay anything for your time at the beach.

How to get around Donousa?

Apart from hiking, the easiest way to move around Donousa is by bus. A bus ride from Stavros to Kalotaritissa costs 3 euros per person, while the cost from Stavros to Mersini is 3,50 euros per person. You won’t need a bus to reach Kedros Beach; it’s just a 15-20 minute walk, depending on which side of Stavros you’re staying on.

Alternatively, you can also use the few taxis of Donoussa. You can call them anytime, and they will pick you up wherever you are. The longest distance, from Stavros to Kalotaritissa, costs around 15-20 euros by taxi. Your smartphone probably won’t have any signal in Donoussa, so make sure to either arrange things in advance or call from a landline (e.g., from a taverna). The taxi option is useful if, for example, you want to stay longer at a remote taverna like Mitsos and there’s no bus to return to Stavros.

When is the best time to visit Donoussa?

The best time to visit Donoussa is June and September. The peak summer season (July, especially August) tends to be crowded by island standards. A late May vacation or an early October one works too, but be prepared for colder sea, stronger winds, and fewer (but not inexistent) accommodation and food options.

Can you rent a car in Donoussa?

No, you cannot rent a car in Donoussa. There is no gas station in Donoussa, and the locals get their gasoline once every month or two after ordering it in advance. So you’ll have to bring your own car if you want to feel independent, but make sure you don’t run out of gas. However, I believe that the local bus, paired with a few taxi rides, works pretty well, and it’s nice to step away from the driving culture for a few days.

How many days do you need in Donoussa?

This largely depends on your budget and lifestyle. As a rule of thumb, I’d recommend at least 4 days on the island. That’s enough to see most of its beaches, immerse yourself in the island’s laid-back atmosphere, and have a relaxed vacation.

Apparently, the more, the better: I stayed two weeks on the island and wish I could stay longer. But 4 days will expose you to the rugged landscape and the beauty of the island.

Is Donoussa worth visiting?

Yes, Donoussa is one of the prettiest Greek islands. If you are after a relaxed vacation in a rough landscape and not a great variety of activities, Donoussa is among the gems of the Aegean Sea. On the other hand, if you’re looking for upscale food options, lots of summer activities, and strong nightlife, then Donoussa is not for you. The island keeps its laid-back character intact, and you won’t find these things here.

Things to do in Donoussa: Final Thoughts

Donoussa may be small and remote, but it has everything that makes a Greek island unforgettable: stunning beaches, delicious food, and scenic landscapes. It becomes harder to find a place where you can properly expose yourself to the elements and unwind after a long winter, but Donoussa might be exactly what you need.

I hope this travel guide to Donoussa has been helpful and has helped you plan your trip a bit better. If you have any questions about the island that you haven’t found an answer to yet, feel free to leave a comment, and I will do my best to answer them.

Discover more about Donoussa: Travelogue & more photos from Donoussa

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