Things to do in Folegandros: The ultimate travel guide

Things to do in Folegandros

The ultimate Folegandros travel guide

Folegandros is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful Greek islands. As you will see in the photos, It enjoys one of the most stunning landscapes in the Mediterranean and probably the prettiest Chora in the Cyclades. But apart from these, there are actually more things to do in Folegandros: from walking the paths to enjoying the majestic beaches, Folegandros is a must for your Greek summer vacation.

I spent a wonderful week in Folegandros (Greek: Φολέγανδρος), and I can’t wait to be back. In this comprehensive travel guide to Folegandros, I’ll share everything you need to know for a great stay on this beautiful island. Specifically, you will figure out how to reach the island, where to stay and where to eat, an overview of the beaches, and several budgeting tips.

So, let’s start with the best things to do in Folegandros and the travel guide to one of the prettiest Greek islands.

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How to reach Folegandros (+how to book your tickets)

Folegandros lies in the southwest Aegean, between Milos and Santorini. While it doesn’t seem that far away from Athens, the journey can take longer than you initially expected. There are currently two ways to reach Folegandros from Piraeus, and I will write here the pros and cons.

From Piraeus to Folegandros by catamaran

The first way to reach Folegandros is by high-speed boats. These are usually known as Catamarans in Greece, and Seajets operate them. Don’t let their name fool you: they aren’t small, they can carry more than 400 passengers, and they are the fastest way to reach Folegandros: you can be on the island in less than 4 hours.

While it sounds like a no-brainer, keep in mind that they are really shaky if the sea gets rough. Also, with a wind stronger than 5 Beauforts, the journey might be unpleasant, and you should consider taking a pill against nausea if you get easily dizzy.

From Piraeus to Folegandros by ferry

The second way to reach Folegandros is by regular ferry. However, the tired ferry operating the line stops on many islands, and the journey takes much longer. You will need approximately 9 1/2 hours to step foot in Folegandros. However, the ferry is a much better option because it won’t make you feel nauseous.

Ferries vs Catamarans in Greece

You now probably wonder: what’s the best way to get to Folegandros? Well, here’s what I think.

If money and nausea are not an issue for you, then definitely go for the catamarans. The journey is significantly shorter but keep in mind that you’ll have to remain seated. There’s no deck, and there’s also no way to bring your car. However, there are bars inside the Catamarans, and when the sea is calm, it’s a joy to travel with them.

Tip: Get a pullover even if there’s a heatwave outside; the temperatures can be polar in the interior.

On the other hand, the ferry is for you if you worry about getting seasick or simply want to be on the deck. Moreover, you can bring your car to Folegandros, and the ticket is cheaper. Check the search engine below for prices and itineraries to Folegandros, but more or less, the catamarans cost double compared to the ferry. That said, if 9-10 hours on the ferry doesn’t bother you and if you are on a tight budget, the ferry is for you.

I always book my ferry tickets via Ferries In Greece, and you can use the search engine below to find your itinerary to Folegandros.

Where to stay in Folegandros

Folegandros is a small island in the Cyclades with approximately 700 permanent inhabitants. However, the number grows significantly during the summertime because of tourism. Therefore, while the prices tend to be steep, there are plenty of accommodation options for every budget. It’s not a surprise that quality and price walk hand in hand on the island.

There are four main settlements in Folegandros, where you’ll find most of the hotels and rooms. However, keep in mind that there are a few options literally in the middle of nowhere: these are also great places to stay but don’t consider them if you don’t have a car (or don’t plan to rent one).

So, here are a few words about the settlements before you find out the best places to stay in Folegandros. Plus, my 4K video to better understand the island.

The settlements of Folegandros

Chora. The absolute gem of the island and one of the most beautiful Choras (the name of the main settlement in the Cyclades). The Chora of Folegandros is stunning, with endless views of the Aegean Sea. On a clear day, you can see several of the nearby islands. That’s where the famous squares of Folegandros are, and that’s where local life unfolds. Apart from loads of restaurants (you’ll find below my tips), there are also several bars to unwind at night. In my opinion, that’s the place to stay in Folegandros.

Ano Meria. Just a few kilometers away from the Chora lies the more rural settlement of Ano Meria. Here’s everything about the landscape: scattered houses, one mini-market, a taverna or two, and that’s it. You should consider staying at Ano Meria only if you have a car and don’t mind driving there after spending the evening at Chora. Otherwise, you can always stop there on your way to most of the beaches.

Agali. The coastal village of Agali is a tiny settlement with a few rooms and proximity to the sea. From there, you can access two more beaches. Not much is going on at Agali, apart from a couple of cafes. Exactly like with the Ano Meria case, you’ll need a car to make your life easier. Consider it only if you don’t want to be at the busy Chora and don’t mind driving back and forth.

Karavostasis. That’s the port of Folegandros, a picturesque settlement with a few accommodation and dining options. While it’s bigger than the previous two settlements, I think I wouldn’t consider staying there either. Folegandros is all about the Chora, so if your budget allows, skip Karavostasis. If you choose to stay at Karavostasis, there are actually three to four beaches within walking distance, and that’s also where the vessels leave for tours around the island.

The best hotels in Folegandros

As you can see above, I highly recommend staying at the Chora. It’s the most beautiful settlement on the island, and it offers most of your dining and drinking options. But you’ll also be among locals and other travelers.

I’ll add the best hotels to stay in Folegandros in this section, as well as a few in the other settlements on the island. Last but not least, I’ll also share where I stayed in Folegandros.

Accommodation in Chora, Folegandros

The best hotels in the Chora of Folegandros are the following:

Horizon Hotel. That’s actually the place I stayed in Folegandros. It’s a wonderful and clean hotel, just off from the famous Chora. It’s a short walking distance to the Chora’s squares, but it’s nicely located on the edge of the settlement for a more easygoing stay. The upper rooms enjoy a great view of the sea and the monastery. The prices are reasonable, and the owner, Irini, is there to help around the clock. Check the prices and availability for Horizon Hotel here.

Chora Resort Hotel & Spa. If you prefer resort-style vacations, this is probably your best option. The Chora Resort Hotel & Spa offers spacious rooms and an outdoor swimming pool. The heart of Chora is just 200 meters away, and there’s free Wi-Fi. This is definitely a more luxurious option, ideal for people who enjoy resort stays. Check the prices for the Chora Resort Hotel here.

Themonies Luxury Suites. And here’s a more traditional option for your stay in Folegandros. The luxury suites at Themonies offer independent houses made of stone at the Chora’s edge. It is a pricey option for sure, but there you’ll have peace of mind, beautiful interiors, and wonderful verandas. So if your budget allows it, look no further. See the Themonies Luxury Suites here.

Aegeo Hotel. As you will see in the following sections, Folegandros is not a cheap island. However, the Aegeo Hotel is probably one of the most reasonable options for your stay if you are on a tight budget. The rooms are clean, and the hotel’s position is ideal. If I couldn’t find a room at Horizon, I would have probably stayed there. Check the prices for the Aegeo Hotel here.

Accommodation in Ano Meria, Folegandros

Ano Meria lies a few kilometers outside of Chora. Here it’s all about the landscape, and if you want peace of mind and a less busy spot, that’s probably for you. The best hotels in Ano Meria are the following:

Anatoli. The name in Greek means sunrise, and that’s what this hotel offers: spectacular rooms toward the sunrise. Located in a breathtaking spot, these wonderful rooms sounded tempting to me. If I hadn’t decided on Chora, that’s where I’d stay in Folegandros. Great feeling, spacious and cozy rooms, and endless sea views from that rocky spot. See for yourself the wonderful Anatoli rooms.

Lemon Tree Houses. Cozy rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and -of course- a fantastic sea view. There’s also a restaurant at the Lemon Tree Houses if you don’t want to leave the hotel for food. One more great option at Ano Meria. Check the Lemon Tree Houses here.

Accommodation at Agali, Folegandros

If you’d like to be straight in front of the sea, the tiny coastal village of Agali is an option. Here’s where you can stay in Agali, Folegandros.

Kymanemi. This small hotel offers several rooms straight at the beach. You can literally wake up in the morning, walk a couple of steps, and swim. Check the prices for Kymanemi here.

Blue Sand Boutique Hotel & Suites. As its name betrays, this is a luxurious option at the bay of Agali. It has beautiful interiors, spacious rooms, and proximity to the sea. See the Blue Sand Hotel here.

Accommodation at Karavostasis, Folegandros

The compact port of Folegandros offers plenty of hotels. If you’d like to be close to the boats that bring you to every beach on the island, this might be a good option for your stay. The best hotels in Karavostasis are:

Vardia Bay Studios. Located at the port of Karavostasis, this complex offers several small studios straight at sea. From there you can also walk to the nearby beaches. Free Wi-Fi and air-conditioning in every room. See the prices for Vardia Bay Studios here.

Onar Suites. That’s one of the most luxurious options at the port. Once again, the hotel is located straight at the beach and enjoys an endless view of the Aegean Sea. See the Onar Studios.

Other accommodation options

Although I firmly believe that the above hotels are the best for your stay in Folegandros, the truth is that every year new hotels appear on the island. If you’d like to explore more options for your stay in Folegandros, please use the interactive map below. Zoom into it and explore more hotels -and see also the more isolated ones if you are into this kind of vacation.

Booking.com

Where to eat and drink in Folegandros

There are plenty of dining options on the island, and tasting the local food is one of the best things to do in Folegandros. While most restaurants are in the Chora, you will find tavernas and cafes in the other settlements. I spent seven days in Folegandros and ate in several places. Of course, this list can never be exhaustive because you’ll need a month to eat everywhere. Moreover, part of my traveling style is to eat at least twice at the places I enjoy the most.

So, here’s where I ate and had a drink in Folegandros.

To Sik (Chic). That’s my favorite taverna on the island. The Chic is located in one of the main squares of the Chora and offers exceptional local food. It’s really delicious, and it’s definitely the place I’ll go to eat when I revisit Folegandros. Don’t forget to try the homemade manoura cheese. A dinner for two (two appetizers, two mains, and half a liter of wine) will cost you approximately 60 euros. A must!

Parasagas. This is a lovely cafe in one of Chora’s main squares. It enjoys nice shadows during the daytime, which is a plus for warm summer days. It offers excellent service, delicious desserts, and nice music. Check Parasagas here.

Araxe. Located in the heart of Chora, Araxe is a local taverna in a nice environment. However, the food is nothing special, and the personnel is somewhat distant. It didn’t meet my expectations; I expected more. A dinner for two will cost you 50+ euros, but honestly, it’s better to eat at Chic.

Rakentia. Probably the best bar in Folegandros. Just off of the Chora’s heart, Rakentia enjoys the most spectacular views of the open sea and the Chora. It’s an excellent option for breakfast and a great spot to enjoy the sunset. The music is 100% compatible with the landscape at night, and the cocktails are delicious. A must for your visit.

Synantisi. That’s a must place to eat during your stay on the island. It’s not in Chora but at the nearby settlement of Ano Meria. You shouldn’t leave the island if you don’t eat at least once at Synantisi (which means “The meeting point”). Don’t miss the traditional “matsata” (handmade pasta) served with rooster or red sauce. Try also “kalasouna,” a special local pie. Highly recommended. The prices are moderate, and the view from their veranda is breathtaking.

Melissa. This is a taverna in one of Chora’s squares. The food is decent, and the staff is polite. It’s definitely better than Araxe, but I can’t compare it to Chic once again. The prices are average for the island: 50+ euros for a dinner of two.

The beaches of Folegandros and other things to do

Most people travel to Folegandros to see its magnificent Chora. But apart from strolling around the picturesque narrow streets, there are plenty of fantastic things to do in Folegandros. While the beaches of Folegandros are breathtaking, one should also try to enjoy the incredible landscape of the island. Quite obviously, a big part of this section is dedicated to the beaches, but I will also add info about other great things to do in Folegandros.

So, let’s start with the beaches. During the summer, you can access most of them with the small vessels that depart from the port of Karavostasis. It’s an easy (but also pricey) way to discover the island. However, if you are into walking and hiking, you might also consider the paths.

In my opinion, walking is the best way to discover Folegandros and definitely the most rewarding one. You will see landscapes of insane beauty, meet donkeys and goats on your way, and immerse yourself in the lonely life of the island. By walking all around the island, you’ll have the best of both worlds: you’ll explore the beautiful paths and reach outstanding beaches.

A note: try to avoid walking between noon and 4 pm. The sun is extremely intense. Even if you walk earlier or later, have a hat and plenty of water. Most beaches have no beach bars or sunbeds, and it’s very seldom to find a tree to get some shadow.

So, here are the beaches of Folegandros.

The beaches close to the port of Karavostasis

Chochlidia Beach. That’s the beach straight at the port of Karavostasis. While it’s not the most beautiful beach at Folegandros, it’s a good option if you’re staying at Karavostasis and you want to go for an early/late swim.

Vardia. On the left side of Karavostasis, the Vardia Bay is a sandy beach that’s definitely prettier than the one straight at the port. It’s just a short walk and very easy to reach.

Latinaki-Vitsentzou-Livadi. The three beaches lie on the right side of the port. You can access all of them by walking or driving the coastal road outside the village. All three are equally nice; the longest one, though, is the last, Livadi. They can get really busy during the high season due to the nearby camping. They are great options to spend the day, especially if you don’t want to walk that much.

Katergo. This one is one of the best beaches in Folegandros (and probably the most famous one). Katergo Beach has crystal clear water and a fantastic rocky landscape. You shouldn’t miss it! There are two options to reach Katergo. You can either walk a steep path from the port of Karavostasis (check the signs); it takes approximately 30 minutes. The other way is to take the small boat from the port, and you’ll be there in 15 minutes. It costs around 20 euros (it’s a return ticket). Ask the boat owner for the last departure and spend a memorable day at Katergo!

The beaches you can reach from Ano Meria

Livadaki. That’s my absolute favorite beach in Folegandros. I spent three days there, and I wish I could spend a month. Livadaki (don’t confuse it with Livadi next to the port) is one of the most stunning beaches I’ve seen in the Cyclades. The path starts after Ano Meria, and you’ll need approximately 45 minutes to reach it. The way back is steep so calculate roughly an hour. Throughout this walk towards Livadaki, you’ll see the incredible landscape of Folegandros in all its glory. Turquoise waters and breathtaking rocky scenery.

If there’s only one beach that you’d like to hike to, this is the one. The path has clear signs (check for the “LV” painted on the rocks). A reason to return to Folegandros, in my opinion.

Ampeli. This is a small, pebble-filled beach on the southeastern side of the island. The path is steep, so it might not be a tempting option. Don’t skip Livadaki for this one.

The northern beaches of Folegandros

Before starting, I should mention something about the northern beaches of Folegandros. The island receives strong northern winds all year long. Therefore, the northern beaches won’t be worth visiting when the winds are strong. So, before starting for the northern beaches of Folegandros, it’s better to check the weather forecast or ask the locals. If the winds blow from the north, skip them. If the winds come either from the south or the west, you are good to go.

You can check the wind forecast for the island here (you need the following marks to visit these beaches: S, W, SW).

Agios Georgios. An eerie scenery with abandoned houses and a beach full of green rocks. It’s a must to visit to enjoy this bizarre settlement that has only lately received some attention. There’s a dirt road at the end of Ano Meria, and there’s also a path. I took the path, and you’ll need approximately 50 minutes to reach the Agios Georgios beach. The way back is challenging, and it will last more than one hour. However, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views and greeted by lonely goats. A must if the winds blow from the south.

Vorina. One more of the northern beaches. The path starts straight after the Chora. There’s a street sign after the three windmills. It takes half an hour to reach Vorina but keep in mind that the beach is rocky. Consider it if you want a nearby beach or if you have several days at Folegandros. If you can only visit one beach in the northern part, it’s better to go for Agios Georgios.

Serfiotiko. One more beautiful northern beach and one more path to go. Serfiotiko is a beautiful option if you want to explore the most undiscovered paths and landscapes of Folegandros.

The beaches of Agali

Agali Beach. The small beach straight at Agali is a fine option to swim in if you stay in this scenic coastal village. However, if you want to explore the island further, you’d better take the path leading to one of the following beaches.

Galifos. A tiny secluded beach. You can reach it after a 15-minute walk from the port of Agali. It’s tiny, and you might not find a place to lie down even in the low season. It’s also a nudist-friendly beach (although all of the off-the-beaten-path beaches in Folegandros are good for nudists). That said, if you want to visit Galifos nudist beach and find a place to lie down, you might have to start early in the morning.

Agios Nikolaos. That’s my second favorite beach on the island. It takes approximately 30 minutes to reach Agios Nikolaos on foot from Agali. The beach enjoys fantastic scenery and two small tavernas for buying drinks or having a proper lunch. The water is crystal clear, and there’s enough space for everyone, even during the high season. Highly recommended.

Fira. A small beach that you can reach within 10 minutes from Agali. A beautiful sandy beach where you can relax and enjoy time away from the crowds. You can also reach it from the Chora, but you’ll need approximately 50 minutes of walking.

Folegandros beach-essentials

Before I write about a few other things to do in Folegandros, I’m adding a short section about two things you should bring. First, as I wrote earlier, the beaches of Folegandros have no sunbeds, umbrellas, or other facilities. Second, Folegandros is a dry island, and the heat can be extremely intense during the summer. So, if you get easily sunburned, you should definitely bring a pop-up beach tent and sunscreen (and lots of water, of course).

A pop-up beach tent will probably fit easily in your suitcase, but even if it doesn’t, it’s lightweight, and you can even have it in hand. Here’s one pop-up tent, and here’s a bigger one.

I’m not an expert on sunscreen, but I had one with me. Sunscreen like this one should be good for your vacation in Folegandros.

Other things to do in Folegandros

While most things to do in Folegandros are beach-related, there are also a couple of other things to consider if you’d like to have a fuller island experience.

Strolling around the Chora is a recommended activity, and I guess you’ll shoot loads of photos. But apart from that, there are also two more things to enjoy at the Chora. The first one to walk up the Panagia Church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. That’s the church on the rock that you’ll see from anywhere in the Chora. Try to reach it early in the morning or late in the afternoon because the sun can be cruel. Apart from visiting the interior, you’ll see loads of islands on the horizon on a clear day, Santorini being among them.

While the Chora of Folegandros refers to the complete settlement, there’s also a Castle (or Castro). That’s actually where the first houses of Folegandros were built. There are still people living in the Castle houses, and you can walk through the narrow streets anytime. The Castle of Folegandros lies straight after the squares (you’ll see the “to Castro” sign).

Leaving the Chora behind, you should also stop at Ano Meria, the rural settlement of Folegandros. It’s a beautiful quiet village where you can also visit the small Folklore Museum portraying life in Folegandros. Don’t expect to see something fancy: it’s more like one room full of local objects with a typical island house interior. Hosted in one of the traditional haystacks of the 19th century, this museum is a window to the past. Ask the locals for opening times because the schedule is a bit irregular (but usually, it’s open between 17:00 and 20:00).

A couple of locals also offer a tour of the island by boat. They usually take place on less windy days to avoid seasick passengers and last several hours. The boat will take you to most of the beaches of Folegandros (Katergo, among them), and you’ll spend an hour or so on some of them.

In Folegandros, there’s also a microbrewery producing its own beer. Its name is Katsika (it means Goat), and it’s actually pretty tasty. It also comes in a nice bottle which makes it also something like an odd souvenir. You won’t find it easily outside Folegandros, so here’s your chance to taste a rare beer.

Last but not least, don’t forget the paths of Folegandros. I insisted on them earlier, and I’ll insist once more. That’s actually one of the best things to do in Folegandros if you want to explore its full beauty. Some lead to spectacular beaches; others are just rocky itineraries on top of breathtaking cliffs. Give them a chance. And if you take the long path to Livadaki Beach, you will also come across the beautiful Aspropounta Lighthouse.

How to budget for Folegandros, Greece

Despite being a tiny island, Folegandros is rather pricey. Don’t forget that it’s part of the Cyclades, and even though it doesn’t have the glow of nearby Santorini (and that’s a good thing), it’s still a place where you can easily spend lots of money. So, how should you budget for Folegandros?

Well, it will largely depend on the time of the year. Everything will be pricier in the high season (July and August). For example, a room that costs 60 euros in June might step up to 120+ during August. That said if you want to avoid high costs and high temperatures, avoid visiting Folegandros during the two summer months. You’ll find much more competitive prices and better services in June and September.

The second question is if you’d like to rent a car. If you do, the prices again vary: you can find a car for 35 euros per day in June, but it might go up to 70 euros during the peak months. If you can’t bring your own vehicle but still want flexibility, consider renting a car; it will make your life easier, especially if you’re visiting the more secluded beaches. There are plenty of car rentals in Folegandros (however, avoid Folegandros rentals), so choose the one that fits your budget. In my opinion, here you’ll find the best options for renting a car in Folegandros.

And then, it is food. There shouldn’t be any price differences depending on the season you visit but keep an eye on it anyway. One extra expense you’ll have in Folegandros is water: you can’t drink tap water in Folegandros (you can shower without problems), so this will be an extra -even though minor- cost.

Folegandros budget breakdown

All that said, for two people visiting Folegandros, I would calculate approximately the following:

• A room to stay: 110 euros per night during the high season, 80 euros in June and September.
• A car: 60 euros in the high season, 35 during the low season. Alternatively, you can use the local bus, which is much cheaper but won’t be that flexible.
• Dinner at night: 60 euros for two main dishes, two appetizers, and half a liter of wine.
• Light meal at the beach: buy some tomatoes, cheese, and bread and bring water with you -for 15 euros.
• Drinks at night: beers will start from 6 euros and cocktails around 8.

Overall, I’d say that you should calculate approximately 140 euros per person per day if you travel during the high season and 90-100 euros if you travel in June or September. This includes accommodation, food, and water for the day, a car, and a drink at night. But, of course, you can reduce the budget accordingly without a car.

Short questions and answers about Folegandros

I have added a short section to answer some of the most common questions about Folegandros. Some of them didn’t fit earlier in this Folegandros travel guide; others -I felt- needed some quick further explanation.

How many days should I stay in Folegandros?

This largely depends on your traveling style. If you are on a Greek island hopping tour and want to see as much as possible, you should stay at least 3 days. In three days, you can wander through the Chora of Folegandros, and you’ll have the possibility to see a couple of Folegandros’ beaches.

On the other hand, if you have a more relaxed vacation, I’d suggest a one-week stay in Folegandros. Seven days on the island will allow you to see most beaches, enjoy the landscape, and visit -at least- twice your favorite places. I also stayed a whole week in Folegandros, and to be honest, I wish I’d stayed longer.

When it’s the best time to visit Folegandros?

I’ll reply here what I always reply to this question regarding Greek islands. The best time to visit Folegandros is June and September. The island will be packed during July and August, and the prices tend to be really high. June and September are quieter, and everything is cheaper. However, the weather will still be sunny, and the sea is still warm.

Is Folegandros windy?

Yes. Folegandros is a windy island. If you’ve been before to the Cyclades, you know that the northern winds (the so-called “Meltemi”) are strong. The strong northern winds usually affect the Cyclades from late June to late August, and they can extend till October. This doesn’t mean, of course, that you can’t also have calm days. But that’s the rule in general.

Can I visit Folegandros from Santorini?

Yes, there are services between Folegandros and Santorini, and during the summer, the boats run daily. It’s a short journey of approximately 90 minutes. Although you won’t see much apart from the Chora and a beach, it’s doable. I’m not a big fan of such excursions, but if you want to try it, you can find the best ferry connections from Santorini here.

So, that’s it with my Folegandros travel guide. Let me know in the comments below if you have more questions about the island or have already been there.

Enjoy Folegandros!

Discover more about Folegandros: My travelogue about Folegandros

More Greek island guides: Anafi, Donoussa, Sikinos, Schinoussa, Crete, Santorini

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Last Updated on April 4, 2024 by George Pavlopoulos