Astypalaia, the so-called butterfly of the Aegean Sea, is one of the most beautiful Greek islands. Although it belongs geographically to the Dodecanese, Astypalaia’s proximity to the Cyclades has influenced the island’s architecture. Today, the island has more than 1,300 permanent inhabitants, and it has slowly become one of the most popular destinations in Greece.
In this travel guide to Astypalaia, you will find everything you need to know before visiting the island. Specifically, you’ll read about how you can reach the island, a description of its beaches, and, of course, the best things to do in Astypalaia. Moreover, I’ll also share accommodation tips and the best places to eat and drink on the island.
So, let’s start with the travel guide and the best things to do in Astypalaia. Navigate through the sections of this post, watch my travel video from Astypalaia and start planning your vacation to one of the most iconic islands of Greece.
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How to reach Astypalaia Greece
You’ll have to cross a good part of the Aegean Sea in order to reach Astypalaia. Even though Astypalaia is the westernmost island of the Dodecanese, the journey is relatively long. Practically, you’ll have to cross the whole Cyclades complex before reaching the island.
You currently have two options to visit Astypalaia: either by ferry or airplane. Yes, Astypalaia has a small national airport, and flying to the island can reduce the journey’s time.
By ferry to Astypalaia
The journey from Piraeus to Astypalaia by ferry is a long one. It takes anything between 8 and 10 hours, and you can reach the island 4-5 times per week. Slower ferries might need more than 11 hours, but you won’t have to depend on them if you are slightly flexible on dates.
Regarding the prices, a return journey by ferry will cost you approximately 100 euros per person (depending on the company). You can book your ferry tickets here or use the interactive search engine below.
By plane to Astypalaia
As I already wrote, Astypalaia has a privilege compared to other islands. And that’s, of course, the small national airport that can significantly reduce travel time. However, the airport is tiny and the planes landing on it are usually small (~50 seats).
During the summertime, there are a couple of daily direct flights from Athens to Astypalaia. The journey takes approximately 50 minutes, and it’s pleasant. Undoubtedly, this is a very fast option, but keep in mind that it comes at a cost: even if you book 4-5 months in advance, a return ticket won’t cost you less than 180-200 euros per person.
You can find the best prices for flights from Athens here.
How I reached Astypalaia
Even though I love ferries, I chose the plane for my journey to Astypalaia. Unfortunately, I had no flexibility when I decided to visit the island, and the plane was my only option. I wanted to spend a week on the island, and flying permitted me to do so. If I had chosen the ferry, I would have only stayed 5 days. However, I’d definitely book a ferry ticket if I were more flexible.
Note: I wrote two guides full of travel tips for your journeys within Greece. Specifically, you can read here to book your Greek ferry tickets and you can also find out how to find deals for domestic flights. Check them out.
Where to stay in Astypalaia
Astypalaia’s tourism is currently booming, and there are lots of options for your stay. The cheapest is, of course, the camping, which is a bit far away from the Chora. The rest of the accommodations are in the three main settlements: Chora, Maltezana, and Livadi.
Chora is hands down the most beautiful settlement on the island, and I strongly recommend staying there. It has nightlife and bars, and it’s also where the bus starts. However, as is often the case in the Greek islands, the costs in Chora are steeper. Therefore, be prepared to budget accordingly.
On the other hand, Livadi is just off from Chora and straight to the beach. This is a relatively cheaper option, and you’ll also have 2-3 tavernas and an equal number of bars. So while Livadi doesn’t have Chora’s flair, it is a decent option. Plus you can travel back and forth to Chora by bus or taxi if you’d like to spend some time there.
Lastly, Maltezana is a 15-20-minute drive from Chora. It’s a very small settlement, and it feels quite far away. In general, I would suggest skipping Maltezana unless you’re after some really relaxing days or you have a car.
Where I stayed in Astypalaia
I decided to stay at the Astypalaia Palace Hotel, and I was 110% satisfied. The rooms are spacious and clean, the owners are very friendly, and the breakfast (served until 11 am) is delicious. The hotel also offers rooms with outdoor jacuzzis on the top floors, with majestic views over the Astypalaia port. The Wi-Fi is reliable, too, and the Internet connection is fast.
I highly recommend staying at the Astypalaia Palace Hotel.
The best hotels in Astypalaia
As I already stated, Astypalaia’s tourism is in its best phase. As a result, the island often appears in international media, and travelers from all over the world visit. That said, the island’s infrastructure develops fast, and several boutique hotels open every year.
Of course, the budget is always the deciding factor. Therefore, in this section, I will share the best hotels in Astypalaia. Some of them are pricey, while others are relatively cheaper. However, please keep in mind that you might see significant price differences depending on the time of your visit.
So, the best hotels in Astypalaia are:
Aphrodite Studios. These fantastic studios are just ten minutes from the Chora. The rooms are wonderful, and the Castle views are breathtaking, especially at night. See the Aphrodite Studios.
Aegean Sea villas. That’s by far the best option if you’d like to stay in Livadi. Aegean Sea Villas offers spacious rooms with terrific views over the Chora and its glorious castle. Check prices and availability for Aegean Sea Villas.
Gerani Deluxe houses. That’s another great option for your accommodation in Astypalaia. Gerani Deluxe houses are close to the Chora and Livadi beach. See the Gerani Deluxe.
Melograno villas. Finally, this is an accommodation option for the ones ready to splurge. Melograno is one of the best places to stay, enjoying spectacular views of everything the island has to offer. And it comes at a price, of course. See Melograno Villas.
For all other options for accommodation in Astypalaia, please check your options here. Alternatively, you can use the interactive map below.
Where to eat and drink in Astypalaia
Astypalaia’s cuisine is delicious, and there’s not a lack of places to eat and drink. Of course, you can find fancy tavernas on the island, but you’ll also come across cheaper (and sometimes more local) options. After spending a week in Astypalaia, I recommend the following places to eat.
- Meltemi. That’s a cafe bar located straight in front of the iconic windmills. Meltemi is actually in the very heart of the Chora of Astypalaia and offers a wide variety of drinks in the most beautiful place on the island.
- Karabo. One of your souvlaki options in Astypalaia. I would say that Karabo is an option if you want to save money or if you are a real souvlaki lover.
- Barbarossa. Located just off the Windmills, Barbarossa offers tasty food at reasonable prices. I had delicious sea bass for 14 euros and mushrooms with wine sauce. I enjoyed the food a lot, and I ate at Barbarossa twice. The personnel is friendly, and I can definitely recommend it.
- Ageri. In the most prime spot on the island, next to the Windmills of Astypalaia, Ageri offers traditional Greek food at reasonable prices. Ask for the fish of the day, and don’t forget to order a Greek Salad with xinomizithra, a local soft cheese with an exquisite taste.
- Paradosiako Kafeneio. As its name suggests (Paradosiako means traditional in Greek), this is a very old-fashioned place close to the Windmills. In Greece, the kafeneio is where older men gather and socialize. This establishment, though, apart from having a classical kafeneio interior, also has a beautiful veranda where you can enjoy traditional dishes. It’s not as cheap as I expected it to be, but it’s not expensive either.
- Akti. One of the best fish options on the island is located at the port. The food at Akti is delicious, but you should expect to pay significantly more. Check Akti here.
- To Steki tou Kalofaga. Once again, that’s a place to eat on the main street, just after the windmills. The prices for the souvlaki and Greek meze (small local dishes like tapas) are decent. See and be seen and feel the wind. The service is friendly, and the food is tasty. Plus, the homemade Greek wine is good.
The best things to do in Astypalaia
Quite obviously, one of the best things to do in Astypalaia is to spend time at the beach. The island has many beaches, and some of them are extremely beautiful. Therefore, in the first part of the best things to do in Astypalaia, I’ll deal with the island’s beaches. However, if spending time at the beach is not your thing, feel free to move forward to the next section, where you’ll find other great things to see in Astypalaia.
The beaches of Astypalaia
Astypalaia has some of the best beaches you’ll find in Greece. However, while some of them are easy to reach, others remain off the beaten path. Therefore, I decided to split this section into three sub-sections depending on how easy it is to reach them.
The easy ones
- Livadi. The closest beach to Chora has clear water and several restaurants. Half of the beach has sunbeds, while the other half remains unorganized. If you swim towards the very right edge, you can see great views of the castle.
- Pera Gialos. The beach straight at the port is rather basic, and I only recommend it for a quick dive.
- Maltezana. There is actually more than one beach at Maltezana because the settlement consists of several smaller bays. Mple Limanaki and Plakes are excellent options for swimming. Unfortunately -for me, at least- most of these beaches have sunbeds. In the area around the beaches, you will always find mini-markets, tavernas, and discreet beach bars.
- Steno. One of the beaches close to Maltezana is Steno. It deserves a special mention because it’s one of the best beaches in Astypalaia. Steno actually splits into two beaches, the Mikro Steno (small) and the Megalo Steno (big). This is a closed bay that might remind you (slightly) of a fjord. The water is crystal clear, and there are currently two beach bars with sunbeds and umbrellas.
Astypalaia beaches off the beaten path
If you would like to reach the off-the-beaten-path beaches of Astypalaia, you will definitely need a car. Some of them are easy to approach; others will request some extra effort. Sometimes small vans visit these beaches, but they require a minimum number of visitors to operate. You can also rent a car here, which is definitely the most convenient option. Visiting the more isolated beaches is one of the best things to do in Astypalaia, but don’t forget to bring provisions (water, food, etc.). So, these beaches are:
- Vatses. This is one of the most beautiful beaches in Astypalaia. There is some basic infrastructure in Vatses, but it can be rather crowded in the high season.
- Tzanakia. Another beautiful beach in Astypalaia. Please keep in mind that this is the unofficial nudist beach of Astypalaia. That being said, nudism is tolerated here, but it also doesn’t mean you have to swim nude if you don’t want to. Tzanakia enjoys a fantastic view of the castle of Astypalaia.
- Kaminakia. If you’d like to reach the beach of Kaminakia, you should calculate approximately 30 minutes of driving. A good part of the road has no asphalt. The beach also has some basic infrastructure and tamarisks to provide you with some shade. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalaia, but it can also be crowded during the high season.
- Agios Ioannis o Richtis. This is the hidden gem of Astypalaia. The beach of Agios Ioannis o Richtis is outstanding but keep in mind that you’ll have to walk approximately 30 minutes. Bring your best hiking shoes and get ready for some action. The landscape will reward you, but if you think you might not manage climbing down to the beach, you better skip it.
The ones you need a boat
One of the best things to do in Astypalaia is to take the little boat(s) to the nearby islands of Koutsomitis and Kounoupi (or Kounoupes). These are two uninhabited islands where the landscape is beautiful and the feel of the Aegean sea unbeatable.
You can’t reach on your own these two beaches, but several tour operators offer daily excursions to these islands. All of them follow the same itinerary: they start from the port of Astypalaia between 11:00 and 11:30 am, and they visit the two islands. To reach the first one takes between 45 minutes and an hour. There you will stay for approximately two hours before starting the next one. You will spend an equal amount of time on the second island too. The tours return to the port of Astypalaia in the late afternoon.
Please remember that the boats do not visit the islands if the winds are too strong. Ask at your hotel’s reception for info on how to pre-book (recommended), and if the boats are visiting the islands of Koutsomitis and Kounoupi on the day, you’re willing to go.
There are currently two options: the first one includes lunch and drinks and costs 45 euros. The second one offers a more raw experience, it doesn’t contain any food or drink (therefore, you should definitely bring your own) and costs 15 euros.
You can also pre-book your tour of the two islands. Check the prices here and here. There’s also a more luxurious option -a yacht cruise with dinner- that you can check out here.
Last but not least, if you’d like to swim in most of Astypalaia’s beaches, there’s also the option of the so-called “Round of the island.”
Other things to do in Astypalaia
Astypalaia is a relatively big island, and there are plenty of things to see and enjoy. Therefore, apart from spending time at the marvelous beaches, you can also do some sightseeing.
So, in this subsection, you’ll find some other great things to do in Astypalaia.
Hiking
If you are into hiking, this is definitely one of the best things to do. You can get information from the Astypalaia tourism office, located in one of the Windmills. The people working there will offer you tips and provide hiking maps.
Visit the castle of Astypalaia
The castle of Astypalaia is one of the island’s landmarks. You can see it from every corner of the island as it sits on top of the hill above the Chora. Constructed in 1204 by the Querini family, the castle enjoys spectacular views of the Aegean Sea. Within the premises of the Venetian Castle of Astypalaia, you can also find two Greek Orthodox Churches dedicated to Saint George and Panagia Kastriani (Our Lady of the Castle).
Reach the church of Panagia Portaitissa
The church of Panagia Portaitissa is the most important pilgrimage site of Astypalaia. Built in the 18th century by a monk named Anthimos, it attracts tourists and pilgrims due to its unique architecture and breathtaking location within the Chora. Inside the church, you can also see the icon of Panagia Portaitissa, which is assumed to be the island’s guardian.
Visit the archaeological museum of Astypalaia
The Archaeological Museum of Astypalaia is the only museum on the island. It showcases some unique items discovered on the island, like ancient tools, coins, and jewelry. The items date back to prehistoric times, but among them, you’ll also see an inscribed column with a letter from Emperor Hadrian.
The infant cemetery of Astypalaia
A few years ago, a team discovered something that could easily be part of dark tourism. More specifically, an infant cemetery was discovered. Located on the hill of Katsalis on the south side of Chora, the infant cemetery of Astypalaia was in use in the Hellenistic years. Despite the morbid atmosphere, this is a place to visit for sure and one of the recommended things to do in Astypalaia.
The second life of things
An honorable mention goes definitely in one of the most original shops that I’ve seen in Greece. Under the poetic name of “The second life of things,” this is practically a second-hand shop. The lady running the shop transforms old objects, giving them a new life. Stuff like windows, keys, and clothes all somehow get a second chance. Each one of them comes with a unique story. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the store and wander through old objects and their stories.
How to budget for Astypalaia
Although Astypalaia is not an extremely expensive island, it’s not as cheap as Anafi or Sikinos. That said, your stay in Astypalaia won’t kill your budget—unless, of course, you choose the more expensive options.
As a rule of thumb, if you visit Astypalaia in the summertime, your accommodation will start from approximately 90 euros. The island recently offers a selection of boutique hotels, and you can even pay up to 250 or 300 euros per night. However, that’s really up to you and your travel lifestyle.
Food, on the other hand, is priced reasonably. As you’ve read in the previous section, you can have a souvlaki meal for less than 10 euros per person, but you can also have delicious fish that might cost you 30 euros per person. In general, I would say that you should calculate approximately 25-30 euros per person for a decent meal.
Moving around the island by bus is the cheapest option -but also the most limiting one. The bus runs every one or two hours (check the updated schedule at the bus stops), but you can reach everything that lies between the two main settlements, Chora and Maltesana. This is a distance of about 20 minutes, and several beaches are on the way. The bus driver will definitely stop if you ask him to and pick you up from the same place. The ticket costs 3 euros per person (one way), and the service is reliable.
Renting a car is a far better option for traveling around Astypalaia. Although this will raise your budget significantly, you will see more places on the island. There are beaches and places that the bus can’t reach, and if you like to make the most out of your stay in Astypalaia, consider renting a car. The prices vary, but they usually start at 40 euros per day.
Two extra expenses
You can’t drink the tap water in Astypalaia. There are several mini-markets, though, and water in Greece is valorized. That said, it is forbidden to pay more than a certain amount of money per bottle. Currently, the 0,5 ml bottle of water cannot exceed 50 cents. Of course, this is an extra cost but nothing that you can’t afford.
Do consider also buying local products. Helping the local economy is always a part of sustainable traveling. Apart from that, the products are really of high quality. What can you buy in Astypalaia? Well, the usual Greek stuff: honey, herbs, and handmade objects.
So, how much money do I need per day in Astypalaia?
This depends on your travel style. If you go for the cheapest accommodation options, a proper meal per day, a return journey with the bus, plus some extras like water or a light lunch, then I’d say that you can easily keep your costs below 130 euros per day. This includes everything mentioned above: accommodation, food, and transport.
However, if you would like to stay in a boutique hotel, rent a car, eat properly twice daily, and have a couple of cocktails at night, this can easily cost between 200 and 400 euros.
For my stay in Astypalaia, I chose a nice hotel, didn’t rent a car, and ate once per day. Instead of having lunch in a taverna, I preferred some local products (cheese, tomatoes) for my lunch. Therefore, I spent approximately 120 euros per day on this kind of vacation for everything.
More about the Greek Islands: Astypalaia Travelogue, Divine Anafi, Introverted Sikinos, Majestic Schinoussa
Greek guides: 1-week itineraries for Greece, 3 weeks in the Greek islands
The official website of the island
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Last Updated on April 10, 2024 by George Pavlopoulos