Featuring an active volcano and home to unique settlements, Nisyros is one of the most fascinating Greek islands. Located in the Dodecanese complex and just an hour away from Kos, the island owes its shape to volcanic eruptions. Nisyros has an almost circular shape, with a diameter of approximately 8 km (~5 miles), and has a short road network of 15 km (~ 9 miles). Although the island doesn’t depend that much on tourism, there are several things to do in Nisyros, and some of them are truly unique.
In this Nisyros travel guide, you’ll find everything you need to know about the Greek volcanic island. Specifically, apart from discovering the top Nisyros attractions, you’ll read about how to reach the island and where to stay. Moreover, I’ll share info about the island’s best beaches and write down food and travel tips. Last but not least, you’ll see my photos, a 4K video from the volcano, and how to budget for Nisyros.
So, let’s start with the travel guide to Nisyros and the things to do on the stunning volcanic island.
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How to get to Nisyros, Greece
The Dodecanese complex consists -as its name suggests- of twelve islands. Nisyros is one of them, and it’s very close to the Turkish shore. The distance between the port of Piraeus and Nisyros is approximately 185 nautical miles. As you can imagine, the journey to Nisyros is long, and you have two options to reach it: by ferry or a ferry-and-plane combination. So, let’s break down each of them and see the best option to get to Nisyros.
To Nisyros by ferry
There are two direct ferries per week between Piraeus and Nisyros. Travel times vary depending on the ferry’s itinerary, but usually, it takes between 12 and 14 hours to reach Mandraki, Nisyros’ port and main settlement. However, since the ferries call at various ports before reaching the island, even short delays in previous stops can extend the journey.
You can always book a cabin if you don’t want to be on the deck or remain seated for such a long journey. Booking a cabin will give you a bed to sleep or stretch on and an ensuite bathroom. It’s a far more convenient traveling option, and the cabins are usually spacious enough (read my Blue Star Ferries cabin review here). However, this option comes at a cost. To get an impression, a one-way ferry ticket from Piraeus to Nisyros costs approximately 75 euros, while a cabin costs slightly less than double.
It’s always recommended to book your ferry tickets in Greece in advance (you can read my Greek ferry guide too). You might find regular seats on the day of your journey, however, it’s better not to risk it. But if you’d like to have a cabin, a last-minute reservation won’t usually work.
The best option for booking ferry tickets is to visit Ferries In Greece. That’s the best price aggregator for ferries, and it also presents up-to-date info about the itineraries. You can use the interactive planner below to find the best prices for your Piraeus-Nisyros journey.
To Nisyros by airplane
Nisyros doesn’t have an airport. Therefore, it’s not possible to fly directly from Athens or any other Greek city to the island. However, if long ferry journeys are nothing for you, there’s a workaround. You can fly from Athens to Kos and from there take the ferry to Nisyros. The flight from Athens to Kos is less than one hour -and it’s just one more hour by ferry to Nisyros.
Please keep in mind that the airport of Kos is located in the island’s heart. This means you’ll have to take the bus or a taxi to one of the ports of Kos from where boats travel to Nisyros. Kos Town port is the biggest, and larger ferries start from there; on the other hand, several smaller vessels are traveling from Kardamena port to Nisyros throughout the day. If you don’t plan to stay in Kos at all, it’s better to get a ferry from Kos Town, due to its historical interest. Kardamena is a resort town, and it feels bland.
Aegean Airlines flies several times per day between Athens and Kos. You can check the times and prices for your journey in the interactive widget below.
Things to do in Nisyros: a travel guide
Nisyros is home to less than 1,000 people, making it an ideal place to avoid crowds and enjoy a relaxing holiday. The majority of inhabitants live in Mandraki, the island’s biggest settlement. Despite travelers usually adding Nisiros to their bucket list because of the volcano, there are many things to do and see on the island. Therefore, in this section, you’ll find a travel guide to Nisyros containing every attraction and activity you can enjoy.
Walk in the crater of an active volcano
Obviously, that’s the best thing to do in Nisyros and among the top activities in Greece. I found the Nisyros volcano much more beautiful than the one in Santorini. In Nisyros, you can actually walk in the volcano’s crater, whose name is Stefanos. The caldera is almost 4 km wide (~2,5 mi), and it took shape after three eruptive stages. The volcano is active but -fortunately- not erupting: the last steam explosion was in 1888.
Visiting the volcano is a must-do. You can easily reach it by car or buy a ticket for one of the organized bus tours that start from Mandraki. The entry ticket currently costs 3 euros, and there’s a small taverna straight before the crater. Regarding the volcano walks, you must know that you enter at your own risk. Just use common sense and enjoy a terrific spectacle in one of Greece’s most unique spots.
Nisyros volcano travel tip: Be prepared for some intense smells when walking around the crater. This rotten egg smell is due to hydrogen sulfide, and if you can’t cope with it, it’s better to wear a face cover. The smell is intense, but I didn’t need a cover because I quickly adapted to it. However, if you are more sensitive to bad smells, consider having something to cover your mouth and nose.
Explore Mandraki, the island’s capital
Mandraki is the port and main settlement of Nisyros. Mandraki’s atmosphere is impressive: you’ll walk in narrow streets, where all buildings have strictly two floors. Every walk will bring you straight to the sea, and at the village’s top, you’ll see Panagia Spiliani Monastery and the Castle of the Knights of St. John’s Order.
As you’ll read later in this Nisyros travel guide, Mandraki is the best place to stay in Nisyros. That’s where most accommodations are and also the place where the few bars operate. Moreover, for history lovers, there’s a fantastic yet compact Archaeological Museum in Mandraki, where you can see exhibits from Nisyros’ history. You’ll find the local Folklore Museum not that far away, which houses utensils and traditional Nisyrian costumes and dresses.
Close to Mandraki, you can see Paleokastro, which is the ancient acropolis of Niryros, featuring dark-colored cyclopean walls. Paleokastro is easy to reach either by car or on foot: it takes just twenty minutes to walk from Mandraki to Paleokastro. The location seems to be a civilizations patchwork because the oldest monument dates back to the Neolithic period, while the acropolis is a Classical Greece element.
Discover Emporeios, a formerly abandoned village
One of the Nisyros highlights is undoubtedly Emporeios, a small village built on the caldera’s edge. Apart from the terrific volcano views, Emporeios has a long history and a sad story.
Located at an altitude of 330 meters, Emporeios is invisible from the sea. This strategic location helped the village flourish during times of piracy. However, the big earthquake of 1933 destroyed the village, and the people immigrated to other islands or even countries. Although the earthquake occurred almost a century ago, most of the village’s buildings are still destroyed, and only recently has there been an effort to reinhabit it.
Wandering through the narrow streets of Emporeios will remind you of a walk in a castle. The houses are very close to each other, and the streets are narrow. The picturesque streets are steep, and the roofs are flat to collect the rainwater. Emporeios’ center is around the tiny square, where you can find the village’s church. However, on the hill’s top, there’s also a castle dating back to the Knight’s era, and there you’ll also find the temple of Taxiarchis Michael, dating back to the 13th century.
Stroll around Nikia, a whitewashed village
Compared to Emporeios, Nikia is a picturesque village in excellent condition. The streets of Nikia are less narrow, and the whitewashed houses give an excellent look to the settlement. Located on the other edge of the caldera, Nikia offers some incredible viewpoints directly to the crater Stefanos. Interestingly enough, every street on Nikia will lead you to the beautiful square called “Porta,” where you can find two local cafes/tavernas to unwind. On the square, you’ll also see a beautiful mosaic in black and white, which is a typical decoration throughout the island.
Around “Porta,” you’ll see the village’s main church dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the school, and Kazellaria, which serves as the town hall. On Nikia’s top are also the remains of an old Knight’s castle, where you can probably have the best views over the volcano.
Visit the Volcanological Museum of Nisyros
Located at Nikia, the Volcanological Museum is among the best things to see in Nisyros. That’s actually the only Volcanic Museum in Greece, and it’s hosted in the old school’s building. Although the museum occupies only a room, it has plenty of information for visitors.
Among the museum’s exhibits, you can see a collection of rocks from the volcano, various maps explaining the volcano’s birth and influence on the area, and also a selection of books on volcanology.
Unwind at Pali, the beautiful fishing village
Pali (or Paloi) is a small fishing village on the other side of the island. Its proximity to Emporeios proves that Pali once served as Emporeios’ port. Its name most likely derives from the Latin “palus,” which translates to a place for tying ships. Nowadays, you’ll find at Pali a few rooms to rent and fish tavernas where you can enjoy delicious meals overlooking the marina.
Among the sights of interest, you’ll find the Roman baths and the small chapel dedicated to Panagia Thermiani, dating back to the early 1870s. The small church is fitted into a rock, and its name derives from a spring of hot water on its back.
Take a daily excursion to Gyali, the tiny island opposite Mandraki
The small island Gyali will occupy your views while walking or driving around Nisyros. Its name means “Glass,” and it’s a small volcanic island between Kos and Nisyros. The tiny island offers an explanation for why Nisyros doesn’t depend on tourism -unlike most other Greek islands. Gyali has huge amounts of pumice and obsidian, both mined in significant quantities and, hence, contributing mainly to the island’s economy.
During the summertime, organized tours to Gyali start from Nisyros, and you can spend a day walking in the barren landscape and enjoy the island’s unique beaches. Alternatively, after receiving special permission, you can get on the worker’s vessel at 6 am and return to Nisyros with the same vessel at 3 pm. However, the heat is intense on the island, so if you choose the latter, make sure to have enough provisions for the day.
Swim at Nisyros beaches
Compared to other Greek islands, Nisyros doesn’t have that many beaches. However, the beaches of Nisyros are splendid, and each has a unique vibe. Moreover, the sea is crystal clear, and you’ll have fantastic days at the beach. Therefore, I encourage you to see most of the volcanic island beaches. In the following lines, you’ll find some info about the best beaches in Nisyros.
Chochlaki beach
Chochlaki (Greek: Χοχλάκοι) is the closest beach to Mandraki. The paved path between Mandraki and Chochlaki is beautiful and offers tremendous views over Gyali and Kos. The beach is unique: it consists of black volcanic stones inside and outside the sea. It might be hard to lay on a towel or get into the sea, however, it’s one of the most beautiful places you can find in Greece. Sea shoes are recommended, and you should keep an eye on the currents: Chochlakoi always seems to have waves.
I went swimming at Chochlaki, and it was one of the most wonderful things I did in Nisyros. Take care of your feet, and make sure to pay attention to the mesmerizing sound of the constantly moving volcanic stones.
Lyes beach
Lyes beach is located on the other side of the island, and it’s a stunning location. Although Nisyros is a green island, the landscape becomes barren on this side. Since Nisyros is a volcanic island, you can’t expect white sand: the color palette is darker, and pebbles are everywhere. However, at Lyes, you can easily lie down and enjoy a day at the beach. It has crystal clear waters, and it gets deep quickly.
There’s a small taverna straight before Lyes, where you can have delicious food and buy daily provisions. In general, Lyes is not a single beach but a complex of smaller bays and beaches spanning almost 3 kilometers. The nicest beaches are around the small taverna, but if you prefer being completely alone, pick a spot and enjoy the sea.
Pachia Ammos
Pachia Ammos is the best beach in Nisyros. You’ll have to walk fifteen minutes from the taverna in Lyes to reach Pachia Ammos, and sometimes it might feel too steep. Practically, you’ll have to walk carefully next to a rock, on a combination of soil and sand, while next to you, there’ll only be a vertical cliff. So keep an eye on your footsteps, and don’t miss the chance to visit the island’s most beautiful beach.
Free campers will occupy a big part of Pachia Ammos during the summertime, but there’s always enough space for everyone. It’s a long amphitheatric beach with stunning views and clear water. Pack your goggles and enjoy swimming.
Pali beach
On one edge of the fishing village, approximately where the marina ends, you’ll find Pali beach. That’s a small family-friendly beach with shallow water and a quiet beach cafe. It’s not the prettiest beach, but it serves its purpose, especially if you don’t feel comfortable swimming or traveling with kids.
Avlaki beach
On the southwestern part of the island, precisely where the road ends, you’ll find Avlaki beach. Despite being at a marvelous location, the beach itself is nothing special. If you somehow end up there, you can swim; however, I don’t think it deserves driving to Avlaki just for swimming.
How to get around Nisyros
You’ll have a much better time in Nisyros if you rent a car or a moped. Despite the island’s compact size, you’ll need a vehicle to see what the island has to offer -and, of course, it’ll give you flexibility.
There’s a local bus in Nisyros. However, the itineraries are infrequent. Even during the high season, the bus runs just two-three times per day. Some itineraries are saved for the daytrippers from Kos that visit Nisyros to see the volcano, walk quickly around Mandraki, and return. However, I believe that Nisyros is a standalone destination, and it’s better to spend a couple of days here and enjoy its unique atmosphere.
That said, renting a car or moped is better to make the most of your stay. You’ll find several local companies renting cars, mopeds, and e-bikes at Mandraki, and it’s better to ask straight there. The car rentals cost approximately 30 euros in June and September and climb up to 50 euros in July and August.
Nisyros travel tip: An e-bike might sound tempting, and indeed it’s a great way to move around. However, the island is steep and tends to be hot during the summertime. If you are an experienced cyclist, you can consider it; however, if you don’t cycle that much and think it’s not a good idea, it’s better to skip it. For cycling around Mandraki, it will be okay, but going to Emporeios or Nikia, will be hard.
Where to stay in Nisyros, Greece
As you already read in the previous sections, Nisyros has four main settlements: Mandraki, Pali, Emporeios, and Nikia. The majority of accommodations are in Mandraki, and that’s the place I recommend staying. In Mandraki, you’ll have plenty of options for eating and drinking, and that’s also the place to rent a car. Especially if you don’t plan to rent a car, staying in Mandraki is a no-brainer: every other option will limit you.
So, in this section, you’ll find the best hotels and accommodations in Nisyros, and I’ll also share where I stayed.
The best hotels and accommodations in Mandraki, Nisyros
Porfyris Hotel. That’s one of the few hotels on the island and lies in Mandraki center. It’s slightly old-fashioned but has the most competitive prices, and nothing is too far away. If you’re on a budget and prefer not to spend lots of money on accommodation, that’s a great option. Breakfast included. See prices and availability for Porfyris Hotel.
Nisyros Views. That’s a great option for your stay in Nisyros. It is located in Mandraki (not Gyali, as it’s falsely written on Booking), and apart from the spacious rooms, it has a fantastic roof terrace with sea views. See the Nisiros Views here.
Traditional house by the sea. This is a typical Nisyrian house, with two floors straight at the beach of Mandraki. It has a traditional island interior, so it might not be for everyone. However, the location is perfect, and plenty of cafes and restaurants are nearby. See the traditional house by the sea.
Where to stay in Pali and Emporeios
If you have a car and don’t mind driving, there are also some great accommodations at Pali and Emporeios. If you don’t plan to have a car or moped, I recommend skipping this subsection of the Nisyros guide.
Plousiadis Stone House. This stone-built house is at Pali, the small fishing village. The house is just a few steps away from the beach and has two bedrooms and two bathrooms. The house is air-conditioned and features a patio with sea views. It’s ideal for families with kids due to the proximity to the beach of Pali, and it also has a playground. See Plousiadis Stone House.
Kafka Stone House. Located in the heart of Emporeios, that’s one of the unique accommodations on the island. Kafka Stone House has a balcony and beautiful garden views. The house has two bedrooms, a living room, a bathroom, and a fully-equipped kitchen. Plus, it has a beautiful terrace. See prices and availability for the Kafka Stone House.
Where I stayed in Nisyros
For my accommodation in Nisiros, I chose the Patriko Nisyrian Guesthouse. That’s a typical two-floor stone house located on a side street of Mandraki, close to the monastery. On the first floor were the kitchen, bathroom, and a cozy living room, while on the second floor were two bedrooms. Everything seemed newly renovated, and the house was spotlessly clean. The price was slightly elevated, but I decided to splurge a bit after a long winter.
Overall, the Patriko Nisyrian Guesthouse exceeded my expectations, and I had a fantastic stay. Whenever I return to Nisyros, I’ll check for sure if this stone house in Mandraki is available. See prices and availability for the Patriko Nisyrian Guesthouse.
Please use the interactive map below for all other accommodation options in Nisyros.
Where to eat in Nisyros
Nisyros has several food options and a couple of local dishes. First of all, you should try “koukouzina,” a local version of raki: it has a high alcohol percentage, and you shouldn’t overdo it. Of course, since you are on a Greek island, enjoying as much fish as possible is always a good idea.
In the following lines, you’ll find the places I enjoyed eating the most in Nisyros, and I can recommend them. On the list’s bottom, you’ll also find my favorite bar on the island. Every link in this section will take you to the restaurant’s Google Maps location; therefore, make a list and save them for your Nisyros holiday.
Oasis. The taverna Oasis is one of the best places to eat on the island. Located -literally- in the middle of nowhere, this taverna is the only building on Lyes beach. It has just a few homemade dishes, and if you arrive late, most of them won’t be available. Nevertheless, it’s a perfect spot to have lunch after spending a couple of hours at the beach. It’s inexpensive, and the food is fantastic. See Oasis on Google Maps.
Oxos restaurant. Located on the left side of Mandraki, straight below Panagia Spiliani’s rock, Oxos offers a selection of Greek meze (tapas) and homemade wine. The location is unique in Mandraki because it offers great sea views, but the food is equally good. This small tavern has a nice atmosphere, and it definitely deserves a stop. See Oxos.
The balcony of Emporeios. There’s a good reason why this place is called a balcony. This great restaurant has a volcano view. You can enjoy lunch and dinner from the balcony overlooking the crater and the breathtaking landscape around it. The food is excellent, and the prices are compatible with the island’s standards. It’s at the main square of Emporeios opposite the church and if you want to enjoy the volcano views, stop here for lunch. See the balcony of Emporeios.
Γευsea. Don’t let its weird name stop you from eating in this restaurant in Mandraki: it’s actually a wordplay between the greek word for “taste” and the sea. This family-run restaurant has fantastic fish dishes. It’s the closest to Greek fusion cuisine in Nisyros, and the dishes are delicious. It’s slightly pricier for the island’s standards, but the food deserved every penny. See Γευsea.
To kafeneio tou Nikola. Located at Nikia, that’s one of the two cafes at Porta Square. You’ll find a wide selection of dishes, and it’s an excellent option for lunch. They also have homemade sweets and delicious yogurt with honey. See the kafeneio tou Nikola.
Plateia Ilikiomenis. The name means “Old Lady’s Square,” and that’s actually not a restaurant but the most famous square in Mandraki, where a couple of tavernas are located. The food is similar in every taverna on the square, so if you want to be in the epicenter of local life and observe people while enjoying food, pick a table.
Enallax Bar. Located straight at the waterfront of Mandraki, Enallax instantly became my favorite night hangout. The guys working there are always in a good mood, the cocktails are fantastic (tip: get a negroni), and the music is always compatible with the island’s atmosphere. Enallax is a place to remember and return. See Enallax on Google Maps.
How to budget for Nisyros
Compared to other islands, Nisyros doesn’t depend that much on tourism. Therefore, you can expect slightly elevated prices for accommodation, but regular prices for food and drink. That said, even in the low season, you might have to pay more than 60-70 euros for a double room, which can easily go beyond 100 euros for the high season. On the other hand, the food is reasonably priced, and I think you can easily have dinner for 15-20 euros per person (add another 10 euros if you go for fish, though).
As I wrote earlier, a vehicle is a must in Nisyros. If you decide to rent a car, it will cost between 30 and 50 euros depending on the season. That’s actually cheaper compared to the Cyclades in places like Amorgos or Folegandros.
Finally, traveling to Nisyros by ferry or by airplane via Kos is a cost in itself. The journey is long, and it will cost some money to reach the island, especially if you book a cabin or go for the airplane option.
All that being said, accommodation in Nisyros is slightly pricier than elsewhere, but the food prices balance the costs.
Nisyros Q&A
Finally, in this last section of the Nisyros travel guide, you’ll find some frequently asked questions about the island and their answers. Consider this Q&A as extra Nisyros travel tips, and feel free to comment below if you need additional info or have more questions.
When it’s the best time to visit Nisyros?
The best time to visit Nisyros is September. The sea is still warm, and most tourists have left. July and August tend to be hot, and the island is full of people. Alternatively, June is also a great time to visit the island, although the sea might be chilly.
Can I go on day trips from Nisiros?
Apart from Gyali and Kos, visiting other islands won’t be easy. Therefore, I would only recommend a day trip to Gyali; Kos is a big island, and you won’t see much on a day trip there.
How many days are enough for Nisyros?
You can see everything in Nisyros in two days: the four settlements, the volcano, and a couple of beaches. However, four or five days would be a great option if you want to enjoy the island and immerse yourself in its rhythms.
I spent nine days in Nisyros and wished I could stay longer.
What to buy in Nisyros?
In Nisyros, you can buy traditional handmade products, like a cherry tomato sweet or Kanelada, a drink made of cinnamon. Moreover, the traditional Nisyrian raki called Koukouzina is very popular among travelers. Finally, you can find volcanic products like shampoos and face creams.
The best store in Mandraki for traditional Nisyrian products belongs to Eirini Sakkali. You can see Eirini’s shop on Google Maps here.
Is Nisyros worth visiting?
Absolutely! Nisyros is one of the last remaining paradises of the Aegean Sea. It has a unique vibe, and the volcano’s presence creates a fascinating atmosphere. Nisyros is definitely worth visiting, especially if you are tired of overpriced or crowded places and you want a more original Greek vacation. Highly recommended.
Nisyros travel guide: final thoughts
Nisyros is a fascinating island, and the fact it doesn’t depend that much on tourism makes everything better. Wandering around the picturesque streets of Mandraki, stopping at Emporios or Nikia, and swimming in crystal clear waters are enough reasons to go to Nisyros. If you are not after some crazy nightlife or need a different sandy beach every day, Nisyros will be a fantastic holiday that you’ll remember for years.
More Dodecanese: Tilos travel guide, Kos day trips
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Last Updated on February 18, 2023 by George Pavlopoulos